The At Home Cook Series, #13: Cooking with Tagines

The Tagine 
A meal cooked in a very beautiful clay tagine and the memory of powerful aromas and flavors permeated my then young, culinary mind, but it was way more than just the food. It was the way it was prepared; the communal aspect of the meal; the experience itself. Reclining on the plush pillows, actual silks floating down from the ceiling. The fountain, keeping the dance of water constant, against the low thrum of the middle eastern music that played in the background. A pot of strong sweetened tea steeping on the low mesob-type table in front of me, while I noshed on Bistteeya, enjoying the play of the spices against the almonds, sugar icing and cinnamon. I was waiting for what was to become a memorable tagine meal. It was surreal. To make my way back to this small private and unique dining room, I had to navigate, politely, through a darkened hallways and alcoves, brushing past family members and past a kitchen, filled with the lilt of foreign dialects and the pungent smells and fragrances expected in North Africa. Since that day I've never been the same. This oasis was located on.....Second Ave, on the Upper East Side of NYC. And it was Tuesday night. I'd heard of authentic cuisine, but this was total immersion. The only thing missing was my Lawrence of Arabia headband and a place to tie up my camel. Had I inquired, I'm sure someone would have found me the required robes to loan me. This was the night I fell in love with the tagine.

Let's start with the very basics: What is a tagine? Well, to confuse you immediately, tagine refers to both a cooking vessel as well as the stew cooked in it. The tagine vessel consists of two parts: a round pot (traditionally clay or terra cotta), and a conical cover sometimes with a small hole which allows some steam to escape. The base is normally shallow with a rim and is commonly glazed on the inside. The conical shaped lid helps preserve moisture in the food as the steam condenses on the inside of the lid. The shape of the lid also creates circulation within the dish, infusing the food with spices and flavors. It gradually reduces the cooking juices so they become more concentrated and flavorful. The lid is commonly glazed on the outside.

Tagines, the meals, are typically found in North African countries including Morocco, Tunisia, and Algeria. Although each country uses ingredients more commonly found on their own soil, the preparations are very similar. Tagines in Moroccan cuisine are slow-cooked stews braised at low temperatures, resulting in tender meat with aromatic vegetables and sauce, cooked in a tagine, the vessel. Stay with me....focus; Ideal cuts of lamb are the neck, shoulder or shank, cooked until it is falling off the bone tender. They are often combined with a medley of ingredients or seasonings: olives, quinces, apples, pears, apricots, raisins, prunes, dates, nuts, with fresh or preserved lemons. Traditional spices used include ground cinnamon, saffron, ginger, turmeric, cumin, paprika, pepper, as well as the famous spice blend ras el hanout.

Ras el hanout is a spice blend that is commonly used all over North Africa, but is known to be Moroccan in origin. Shops, companies, or even individuals usually have their own secret combinations and recipes, containing over a dozen spices. Typically included are cardamom, clove, cinnamon, ground chili peppers, coriander, cumin, nutmeg, peppercorn and turmeric. Some recipes include over one hundred ingredients, with some rarely found in Western food, such as; ash berries, chufa, Grains of Paradise, orris root, Monk's pepper, cubebs, or dried rosebud.

Other ingredients for a tagine may include any product that braises well: fish, quail, pigeon, beef, root vegetables, legumes, even amber and agar wood. Modern recipes in the West might include pot roasts, ossobuco, lamb shanks and short-ribs. Just because we're cooking in a Moroccan tagine, does not limit us to cooking Moroccan cuisine. Seasonings can be traditional Moroccan, French, Italian or spices can be suited to the dish.

Ingredients commonly used when preparing tagine include: 
Preserved lemons, onions, dried fruits, nuts, sesame seeds, eggs, tomatoes, peppers, olives and seasonings like paprika, cinnamon, cumin, cilantro and saffron are the other components. Smen is a traditional cooking oil most commonly in North African and Middle Eastern cuisines. It is produced using the butter made from the milk of sheep or goats. The butter is brought to boiling point for about 15 minutes, then skimmed, strained into a ceramic jar called a khabia, and salted before it curdles. The oil is then aged.

Glazed vs Unglazed: 

Ceramic glazes are thin coatings baked onto unfinished pottery to make their surfaces glassy, smooth and waterproof. Some glazes used for ceramic products may contain lead oxides. If they are not heated adequately during manufacture, this may result in the release of lead from the product into the food.

So which should you choose?

If you are going to use tagines to cook frequently, say weekly, then unglazed tagines are best because they provide that earthy flavor to your dishes. Otherwise, and this is what most people do, the glazed tagine is better for you because it is stored away and it does not develop that "closet" scent the way unglazed tagines would. Here are a few tips for seasoning your tagine for its first use: This should help remove any earthenware taste and strengthen your tagine;

1. The new tagine needs to be submerged in water for at least 1 hour. Remove and dry.

2. Rub the inside of the base and lid with olive oil.

3. Put in a cold oven and set temperature to 350 degrees and leave for 2 hours.

4. Remove from oven and cool.

5. When completely cool, wash in warm soapy water and dry with a clean cloth.

6. Your tagine is now ready to use.

* NOTE: When cooking in a tagine, never place a ceramic tagine directly on a flame. A heat diffuser should be used if you are using a traditional ceramic tagine. If you do not have a diffuser, place the tagine in a large skillet. If cooking on an electric stove use a medium heat. European manufacturers have created tagines with heavy cast-iron bottoms that can purportedly be heated on a cooking stove to a high temperature, but even these should be used with care, following specific manufacturer guidelines.

So now its time to cook! Gather your ingredients, cut your meat or protein into the appropriate size and shape. Browning in the tagine is an option, but normally a clay tagine is finished uncovered to gain that brown development of flavor towards the end. Seasonings should be added to the protein and vegetables to allow time to develop during the stewing process. In the base of a skillet or the tagine, add some oil, saute garlic and onion along with the protein, then add the vegetables. Cover and cook for the appropriate cooking time. Once the tagine is done cooking, it can be served in the cooking tagine bottom itself, or it can be transferred into a more decorative tagine or bowl to bring to the table. Tagines can be found at Moroccan markets, or on the internet. Be sure to purchase the size and shaped tagine that best suits your needs. Good Luck And Enjoy!

Bon Appetit,

Lou

Sources: wholefoodsmarket.com surlatable.com

Herbed~Lemon Chicken w/Pureed Rutabaga & Grilled Asparagus....

Herbed~Lemon Chicken w/Pureed Rutabaga & Grilled Asparagus....

Serves 4-6

courtesy of Elaine Giammetta

Lemon Chicken
Ingredients
2 x 3lb chickens
2 lemons
5 sprigs fresh thyme
5 sprigs fresh tarragon
olive oil
½ garlic bulb
S&P

Method for Chicken
Preheat oven to 400F
Begin by rinsing the chickens in cold water and dry thoroughly. Season the cavities with S&P and stuff each chicken with ½ lemon, quartered, ½ garlic, thyme and tarragon sprigs.
Cut the other lemon into wheel slices and on a foiled roasting tray place three slices under each chicken.
Season the skin of each bird with S&P and drizzle olive oil on each. Rub the seasoning in to the skin. Roast in oven for approximately 10 minutes per pound, until juices run clear. The temperature of chicken should reach approximately 160 degrees in the thickest part of the bird, namely between the thigh and breast. Let chicken sit to allow juices to reabsorb.

Rutabaga
Ingredients
3 rutabagas (yellow turnips)
¼ - ½ cup low-sodium chicken broth (enough to mash)
S&P

Method for Rutabaga
Peel and roughly cut the rutabagas and put them in a medium saucepan. Boil them in salted water for 20 minutes or until soft. Once fork tender, drain completely and return to the boiling pot. Mash them along with ½ cup chicken broth. Taste and season.

Asparagus
Ingredients
2 bunches of Asparagus
½ lemon
S&P

Method for Asparagus
Preheat a grill pan on high heat and drizzle olive oil. Season with S&P. Grill asparagus for 4-5 minutes until charred but not over-cooked. Just before serving give them a squeeze of lemon juice.

Bon Appetit, 

Lou

Gouda; The Cheese, Gouda; The City & Gouda; The Market...now, that's a lot of Gouda...

"Why Gouda?" you may ask. Well, I recently had some 6 and 10 year old Gouda and it was, well, absolutely amazing. I had no idea it could be so good. I was confronted with a pungent cheese, rich in Umami, with the almost candy-like characteristics of butterscotch. So, as is my way, I thought I'd write about it.

Gouda, The Cheese
The cheese is made from cow's milk that is cultured and heated until the curd is separate from the whey. Some of the whey is then drained, and water is added. This is called "washing the curd", and creates a sweeter cheese, as the washing removes some of the lactic acid. About ten percent of the mixture is curds which are pressed into circular molds for several hours. These molds are the essential reason behind its traditional, characteristic shape. The cheese is then soaked in a brine solution which
gives the cheese its rind and distinctive taste. The cheese is then dried for a couple of days before being coated to prevent it from drying out, then it is aged, depending on age classification, for a number of weeks to over 7 years before it is ready to be eaten. As it ages it develops a caramel sweetness and sometimes has a slight crunchiness from protein crystals that form in older cheese.

Exported Gouda is usually the young variety (aged between 1 and 6 months, rich yellow in color and with a red or yellow paraffin wax coating). This cheese is easily sliced on bread with a cheese slicer. Exported Gouda has a pungent underlying bitterness, yet is still considerably creamier than other common cheeses, such as cheddar cheese or Edam cheese. Locally, old Gouda (aged between 12 and 18 months, orange-yellow in color and sometimes discernible by a black paraffin wax coating) can be obtained. This strong tasting cheese is hard and often too brittle to cut using a slicer, but it can be sliced by knife or served cut in cubes, with drinks. Smoked gouda which is a processed cheese and Leyden cheese are also popular variations. Gouda is simply unrivaled for that perfect balance of salty and sweet. Deep caramel in color, crunchy, flaky and meltingly smooth on the tongue, a true cow's milk, Dutch Gouda bursts with flavor. The hint of butterscotch at the finish is a signature of this Dutch treat. Gouda pairs well with Cabernet Sauvignon as well as several white wine varietals.

Gouda, The Cheese City
While most people are aware o this extremely popular cheese cheese, few realize that the cheese is named for a historical city and municipality in the western Netherlands, in the province of South Holland. Gouda, which was granted city rights in 1272, is famous for its Gouda cheese, smoking pipes and its 15th century city hall. The town takes its name from the Van der Goude family, who built a fortified castle alongside the banks of the Gouwe   River, from which the family took its name. The area, originally marshland, developed over the course of two centuries. By 1225, a canal was linked to the Gouwe and its estuary was transformed into a harbour. Gouda's fabulous array of historic churches and other buildings makes it a very popular day trip destination.

The History

Around the year 1000, the area where Gouda now is located was swampy and covered with a peat forest, crossed by small creeks such as the Gouwe. Along the shores of this stream near the current market and city hall, peat harvesting began in the 11th and 12th centuries. In 1139, the name Gouda is first mentioned in a statement from the Bishop of Utrecht.

In the 13th century, the Gouwe was connected to the Oude Rijn (Old Rhine) by means of a canal and its mouth at the Hollandse IJssel was developed into a harbor. Castle Gouda was built to protect this harbor. This shipping route was used for trade between Flanders and France with Holland and the Baltic Sea. In 1272, Floris V, Count of Holland, granted city rights to Gouda, which by then had become an important location.

Great fires in 1361 and 1438 destroyed the city. In 1572, the city was occupied by Les Gueux (Dutch rebels against the Spanish King) who also committed arson and destruction. In 1577 demolition of Castle Gouda began. In 1574, 1625, 1636, and 1673, Gouda suffered from deadly Plague epidemics, of which the last one was the most severe: 2995 persons died, constituting 20% of its population. For ages, Gouda cheese and cheese according to Gouda recipe, have been conquering the world. Gouda cheese, or in Dutch: 'Goudse Kaas' is found on all continents.

It all started right here and as soon as the early Middle Ages. It mainly concerned the authentic farm cheeses produced in the traditional manner on the surrounding district farms. As all these products had to find their ways to the customer, Gouda grew into the center of cheese trade because of its good location and ideal water connections with the surrounding places and the ocean port of Rotterdam. The venerable, ancient City Hall of Gouda became the core of the weekly 'Kaasmarkt' cheese market; a fine, bustling trading scene. In 1667 the Gouda city council acquired the right to levy duties on this profitable trade.

De Waag' weigh house

The year 1668 saw the construction of the 'De Waag' weigh house across from the city hall. This was the place where the cheeses supplied and sold were weighed and taxes were determined. 'Goudse Kaas' developed into an increasingly important trading product and various cooperatives and trading houses were soon to establish themselves in and around Gouda.

By now Goudse Kaas is being produced according to its famous recipe all the world over. Still, for real, traditional Gouda farm cheese... the place to be is the Gouda district; places like Stolwijk, Haastrecht and de Krimpenerwaard polder.

Gouda's Sights

Grote of St. Jans Kerk (Great or Saint John Church) - largest cross-shaped church in the Netherlands, famed for its stained glass which were made between 1530 and 1603, considered the most significant stained glass collection in theNetherlands. Even in the 17th century, it already was a tourist attraction.

Waaiersluis (Waaier Locks) a historic lock on the Hollandse IJssel, just east of Gouda.

Museumhaven Gouda (Harbor Museum Gouda)




Gouda Cheese and Crafts Market

Cheese has been traded for over 300 years in the Markt, which is also known for its world-famous City Hall. On Thursday mornings cheese farmers from all over the district used to come to Gouda in their cheese brakes. In the nearby Tiendeweg the horses were unharnessed, after which the brake was pushed by hand to the Markt, where the farmer was assigned a place by the market superintendent and bargaining could take off. When a cheese trader approached a brake, the farmer removed his tarpaulin and started bargaining. After the lot was sold the brake left forthe Kaaswaag for the cheese to be weighed. The trader paid the farmer according to the weighing slip he received. Most of the time payment was made in the beer-house at the end of the market day.

The traditional Gouda cheese market is still held on Thursday mornings (starting mid-June and lasting until early September). Farmers and traders can still be found doing what they have done for ages: haggling, bargaining. Lots that have been sold still go by cheese brake to the Waag to be weighed. Supplying and carrying-off, bargaining and weighing, all these still are as spectacular as they used to be and can be observed at a very close distance.

This also goes for the typical Dutch cheese boys and cheese girls, the latter regularly offering bits of Gouda cheese to visitors. Although preparations always start really early, the Kaasmarkt does not start until 10:am and closes about 12:.30 pm, when the last cheeses have been sold and carried off. The Kaasmarkt is accompanied by a crafts market, presenting traditional, mainly Gouda crafts and products like pottery, claypipes, clogs, farm produce, syrup waffles and, of course, cheeses.

Bon Appetit,

Lou

Sources: planetware.com