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Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Winemaking in Napa Valley, California

Many of you are familiar with the wines you like from this iconic wine-growing region. The area boasts nearly 700 wineries ranging in size from small, family-owned wineries producing as few as 250 cases of wine annually, to multinational corporations selling millions of cases of wine each year. There are those that predict that the abundance of great wine being produced in the state of California today will reach a very local and regional flavor, as more and more smaller wineries make their niche.

What you may not know, however, is how Napa Valley became what it is today. Like the cheeses of the state, recent wine making in California has taking on an 'artisanal flair,' a seemingly new direction after the mega wineries made their mark in the 60s,70s and 80s, but, its artisan history actually goes back to the very first settlers that arrived in the area. The question I chose to explore here with this was, "Why Napa? What makes Napa Valley and surrounding area's so conducive to producing such quality grapes?" I'm more interested in the region that is Napa, as opposed to any one winery so with this article I've chosen to explore the area's culture and history, and what it is that makes it such a special place in the world when it comes to making wine.

The staggering thought for me is that when it comes to wine-making history, Napa is but a babe, yet it has taken the wisdom of the world and in a very short time, emerged into a highly respected status. What might this region hold for future wine connoisseurs as the Valley matures throughout the next 2 or 3 decades? Grab a glass of your favorite, settle in...and let's explore Napa, California.

An Overview
Within the Napa Valley, regions have emerged that possess distinct micro-climates and terrains, imprinting recognizable characteristics into the grapes grown within them. Vintners and growers within these regions delineate the boundaries of these growing areas, giving them names that reflect their regional designations, or appellations. Data supporting a proposed American Viticultural Area, or AVA, is submitted to the government, which decides whether the proposed appellation designation will be granted.

The Napa Valley is itself an appellation and within the Napa Valley appellation exists 14 sub-appellations, or AVAs, including: Atlas Peak, Chiles Valley District, Diamond Mountain District, Howell Mountain, Los Carneros, Mt. Veeder, Oakville, Rutherford, St. Helena, Spring Mountain District, Stags Leap District, Yountville, Wild Horse Valley and Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley. The Calistoga appellation is still pending approval.

The History
The Wappo Indians, who first inhabited the valley, described it as 'a land of plenty' with the word, "Napa." Back then it was an area alive with wildlife from salmon filled waterways to clouds of migrating waterfowl, the valley filled with wildcats, elk, black bear and grizzlies. It seemed the land itself wished to bring forth her sweet nectars as wild grapes also grew in abundance, but, it was not until an early settler, George Calvert Yount, recognized the valley's true potential for cultivating wine-grapes. Establishing the first local homestead in what is now Yountville in 1836, Yount was the first to plant vineyards in the valley. In 1864, Yount's grandson-in-law Thomas Rutherford and his new bride Elizabeth received 1,040 acres of land in the area now known as Rutherford as a wedding present from Elizabeth's grandfather,Yount. Rutherford made a serious investment in grape production and wine-making from 1850 to 1880, and established himself as a grower and producer of high-quality wines.

John Patchett established the valley's first commercial vineyard in 1858, with Charles Krug establishing Napa Valley's first commercial winery in St. Helena, in 1861. H. W. Crabb bought land near Oakville close to the Napa River in 1868 and he established a vineyard and winery named To Kalon, and by 1877, had planted 130 acres and was producing 50,000 US gallons of wine per year. Crabb experimented with over 400 grape varieties in a quest to find the types best suited for the area.

In the winery boom that followed, which included names like Schramsberg (founded in 1862), Beringer (1876) and Inglenook (1879), by the end of the nineteenth century there were more than one hundred and forty wineries in the area. Of those original wineries, several still exist in the valley today including Beaulieu, Beringer, Charles Krug, Chateau Montelena, Far Niente, Mayacamas, Markham Vineyards, and Schramsberg.

Before long, however, the rapid expansion of the new wine industry saw prices plummet amidst a sea of surplus grapes, and the arrival of the disease phylloxera dealt vintners a stunning blow, as much of the valley's vineyard acreage fell victim to the destructive root louse.

An even greater threat to Napa Valley's wine business arrived in 1920, with the enactment of Prohibition. Vineyards were abandoned and many winemakers found other trades during the next 14 years, with a handful of wineries continuing to operate by producing sacramental wines. With the repeal of Prohibition in 1933, Napa Valley's wine industry began its renaissance: a period of recovery, then tremendous expansion and, finally, in recent years, refinement.

During the war years the industry faced a number of problems, including price controls and a daunting shortage of labor, bottles and rail cars for eastern shipment of wine. In 1943, Louis M. Martini, John Daniel, Jr., Charles Forni and Louis Stralla discussed forming an association, a vintners forum, that would allow vintners a regular opportunity to exchange ideas and work as a group to overcome some of these obstacles and to elevate the status of Napa Valley wines. The late Louis P. Martini recalled that his father "believed the vintners could collectively solve industry-related problems that could not be solved by individuals."

Martini also said that "in order to maintain harmony, one of the early unwritten rules was there would be no action on an issue unless there was unanimous agreement." By 1944 a formal agreement of association was drafted. Shortly thereafter, the four original founders invited other vintners to join them: Georges de Latour, Robert Mondavi, Elmer Salmina, Charlie Beringer and Roy Raymond.

André Tchelistcheff is generally credited with ushering in the modern era of wine-making in California. Beaulieu hired Tchelisticheff in 1938. He introduced several new techniques and procedures to the region, such as aging wine in small French Oak barrels, cold fermentation, vineyard frost prevention, and malolactic fermentation.

Brother Timothy; a member of the Christian Brothers, was also very instrumental in the creation of the modern wine industry in Napa. After an earlier career as a teacher, he transferred to the order's Mont La Salle located on Mount Veeder in the Mayacamas Mountains east of Napa in 1935 to become the wine chemist for the order's expanding wine operations. The Christian Brothers had grown grapes and made sacramental wine in Benicia, California during Prohibition, but decided to branch out into commercial production of wine and brandy after the repeal of Prohibition. The science teacher was a fast learner and soon established Christian Brothers as one of the leading brands in the state's budding wine industry. Brother Timothy's smiling face in advertisements and promotional materials became one of the most familiar images for wine consumers across the country. Following the Second World War, the wine industry in Napa began to thrive again.

In 1965, Napa Valley icon Robert Mondavi broke away from his family's Charles Krug estate to found his own wine-making operation in Oakville. It was the first new large scale winery to be established in the valley since before prohibition and included the original To Kalon land. Following the establishment of the Mondavi estate, the number of wineries in the valley grew rapidly, as did the region's reputation.

In 1975, the Napa Valley Grape Growers Association was organized and today both growers and vintners join forces on projects of common interest, devoting much of their time to an active marketing program.

In 1981, the first Napa Valley Wine Auction was sponsored at Meadowood resort. Over the years, this NVV-sponsored celebration of Napa Valley wine and food has become one of the world's premier charity wine events, drawing participants from around the globe. Since 1981, the NVV has given $85 million to local health care, youth programs and affordable housing.

Today Napa Valley features more than 700 wineries that grow many grape varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Zinfandel, and other popular varietals. While some winemakers produce wines from specific AVAs within the valley, the majority choose to blend or cuvée their wines using a mixture of wine from grapes grown on the valley floor and the surrounding hillsides. Its growers and vintners combine cutting-edge science with traditional techniques, and its reputation for producing world-class wines is firmly established in an ever-growing global market.

In a move toward sustainable and green, a growing number of Napa Valley vintners are engaged in organic farming. Organic farmers must manage their crops through tillage and cultivation practices, crop rotations, and cover crops, supplemented with animal and crop waste materials and allowed synthetic materials. Incidentally, Napa County is home to 18% of all the certified organic vineyard acreage in the state. As a community, Napa Valley vintners support the reduction, and whenever possible, the elimination of chemical pesticides and synthetic fertilizers.

Napa Green Certified Land is a voluntary program for Napa Valley vintners, grape growers and other agricultural land owners that enhances the watershed and restores habitat with sustainable agriculture practices. Approximately 33,150 acres are enrolled in the program and more than 16,900 acres are certified, with thousands more about to receive official certification. A majority (90%) of the Napa River watershed is in private ownership and public/private partnerships as well as programs like Napa Green are vital to the community.

The Geography
The combination of Mediterranean climate, geography and geology of the Napa Valley are conducive to growing quality wine grapes and while doing research for a piece on the wines of Spain, I was surprised to see that one of the area's I covered was referred to as the "Napa Valley of Spain," such has become the its reputation. In fact, there is more viticultural diversity within the Napa Valley appellation than there is within the Médoc or the Côte d'Or, in France.

Bounded on both sides by mountains, the Napa Valley stretches approximately 30 miles in a northwesterly direction, its width ranging from five miles at the widest point near the city of Napa to just a mile where the valley narrows near the town of Calistoga.

Bisecting the valley is the Napa River, which follows the valley's tapered contour, and dwindles from a fully navigable river in its southern stretches to little more than a creek at its northern beginnings. The valley's topography changes with its length, from the windswept estuarine flats and gentle hills in the south to the valley's narrow tip at the town of Calistoga, cradled between the sheer walls of the Palisades at the foot of Mount St. Helena to the east and the forested Mayacamas Mountains to the west.

The Napa Valley's amiable climate makes it a veritable garden. A wide variety of fruits and vegetables thrive here: oranges, prunes, apples, olives and more. But what makes the Napa Valley truly unique is its remarkable suitability for the production of wine grapes. A maritime climate that produces cool nights and warm days combines with soils that are deep but not excessively fertile to yield grapes that are singular in their intensity, complexity and balance.

Several different micro-climates and a wide array of soil profiles mean that different vineyards produce grapes that are unique in style and character - but uniformly high in quality.

The vineyard environments of the Napa Valley have evolved through geologic time. Like the rest of California, Napa Valley has had a very active and eventful geologic history. Many tectonic plates (large pieces of the earth's crust) have collided with North America to form California. As a result, there are many geological faults in the area, which have molded the topography of the Napa Valley and the mountains that surround it.

A great deal of volcanic activity occurred in the area about two million years ago. These volcanic eruptions deposited a series of ash and lava called the Sonoma Volcanics over much of Napa and Sonoma Counties, especially along the axis of the Mayacamas Range. The small hills which emerge from the valley floor north of Yountville were created by this volcanic activity. The valley is part of the California coastal margin, which is made of old seafloor, diverse chunks of rock from the greater Pacific basin, and fire-born materials disgorged from inside our planet. The long, steady compression formed the uplifted seabed into folds that became mountain ranges. In that process different types of valleys were created. In a few cases the troughs between the mountains were widened and lowered. The Napa Valley is one such drop-and-spread valley, which accounts for its low elevation relative to the higher stream-etched valleys which are more typical of the Coast Range.

Changes in sea level caused San Pablo Bay to alternately advance and retreat over the southern part of the valley several times. This resulted in the deposition of bay sediment (clays and sand) as soil parent material in the southern valley. The bedrock varies from coarse sandstones to marine conglomerates to volcanic basalts and tuff. These different parent materials give rise to soils with very different abilities to retain water, texture and fertility.

How does knowing this information affect the wine you drink? Well, from our 'consumers' point of view, it produces those unique characteristics in certain wines that are the very reasons we choose one wine over another. Knowing which wineries are growing the right grapes, means that you will be getting the very best of that particular variety.
 Here's a simple geographical example;

Vitis vinifera (wine grape) will grow in the temperate latitudes of the northern and southern hemispheres and it will make good wine in most of those places. It will make better wine in the climate of California. It will make excellent wine in certain locations within coastal California. It will make outstanding wine wthin Napa Valley. It will make exceptional wine in many locations within the Napa Valley.

Within this dimension of superb locations, the issue becomes no longer, how good the wines are, but the characteristics of those wines. Like Bordeaux in France, wines, no matter how regional, are expected to be good if coming from wineries within that appellation. The same can now be said for Napa Valley. Some locations will favor certain grape varieties over others. In places having a single grape in common, the wines from each place will show distinctive aromas, flavors, color, texture, acidity and - most difficult to define - an overall sensibility that might be likened to personality.

The landscape as we know it today was completed inside the last 10 million years, with what we consider finishing touches coming in the geological equivalent of last week. Around 5 million years ago, Pt. Reyes was somewhere off the coast of Monterrey, grinding northward on a tectonic journey that began on the Mexican coast and may end in the Arctic Circle. Just a few thousand years ago the Golden Gate was the mouth of a mighty river draining most of the melting snow-pack of the Sierra west to the sea.

California's coastal landscape is still changing. The volcanic chaos and marine incursions have given way to gentler but no less inexorable forces. In more recent time, seismic activity and simple water movements have been the primary agents of change. Every earthquake is a reminder that the earth's crust is dynamic, that features we consider permanent parts of the landscape may, in fact, be transient. Meanwhile, water continues to erode, transport, mix and deposit rock materials, introducing them to the ongoing process of weathering into new soils. Like the wine it yields, fine soil ages gracefully. Older soils are better able to restrain youthful exuberance of healthy grapevines, because through leaching and amalgamation they have become inherently less vigorous. In fact, many of the materials that make up Napa Valley soils are far older than the topography they cover.

The Appelations (AVA's) *calistoga is still pending.

Atlas Peak
Climate: Cool, mountain-influenced, with temperatures about 10 to 15°F cooler than the Valley floor in summer. Above the fog line, there is a low diurnal change, with summer temperatures rarely above 90°F (30°).
Elevation: 760 to 2600 ft (231m to 792m).
Rainfall: 38 inches (96 cm) annually.
Soils: Volcanic in origin, with basaltic red color, shallow with limited water retention, so irrigation is often essential.
Principal varieties & characteristics: Cabernet Sauvignon: Bright berry and cherry fruit, and more acidity than wines from Stags Leap District. Chardonnay: Crisp, flora, aromatic, with distinctive pear-mineral flavors and bright acidity.

Chiles Valley District
Climate: Fairly warmer summer days (mid-80°F plus), but due to higher elevation and summer fog at night, quite chilly at night (below 50°F). With colder winters and spring, as well as strong winds, harvest comes later than on valley floor at Oakville.
Elevation: 800 to 1300 ft. (242 to 394m).
Rainfall: 35 inches (88cm) annually.
Soils: On the valley floor, primarily alluvial soils with silty-clay composition of marine origin, with good fertility. Hillsides show more clay-loam and stony-clay composition, mostly marine in origin, with some volcanic outcroppings, and less fertility.
Principal varieties & characteristics: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc: Cabernets usually reveal a lush yet firm texture with good acidity, firm tannin and distinctive cherry-blackberry flavors. Merlot typically has vibrant black cherry flavors mixed with a touch of cocoa.

Diamond Mountain District
Climate: Moderately warm temperatures with lower maximum temperatures and higher minimum temperatures than north Napa Valley floor, due to topography and altitude. Significantly cooler than valley floor near Calistoga, 50 to 95°F in growing season (10 to 32°C).
Elevation: 400 to 2200 ft. (130 to 530m)
Rainfall: 40 to 55 inches (135cm) annually.
Soils: Residual uplifted soils of volcanic origin, often reddish and very fine-grained, even gritty in texture, composed of both weathered sedimentary and volcanic origin.
Principal varieties & characteristics:
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc: firmly structured, rich and fairly tannic when young, with strong blackcurrant, mineral, and cedary flavors. Less supple and fleshy than valley or benchland wines, with good aging potential. Chardonnay: Full-bodied, yet revealing mineral, green apple-peach aromas with fairly firm acidity; less richly textured than valley floor wines.

Howell Mountain
Climate: Similar to the facing Spring Mountain AVA, however slightly warmer and dryer overall due to strong afternoon sun influence. Fairly cool nights in both ranges and higher elevations help maintain good acidity.
Elevation: 600 to 2200 ft (184 to 675m).
Rainfall: 40 to 50 inches (125cm) annually.
Soils: Predominantly volcanic, shallow and infertile. Drainage is high, fertility low.
Principal varieties & characteristics: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel: Powerful, firm, blackberry-currant flavors and often richly tannic, with excellent acidity for aging. Chardonnay, Viognier: Sinewy, firm and not as fruity as those of the valley floor, revealing more citrus and stone fruit flavors.

Los Carneros
Climate: Cool, with prevailing marine winds from the San Pablo Bay and through the Petaluma Gap to the west. High temperatures during summer rarely exceed 80°F (27°C) with less diurnal range variation.
Elevation: 15 to 400 ft. (4.6 to124 m)
Rainfall: Lowest in Napa Valley: 18 to 24 inches (7.2 to 9.6 cm) annually.
Soils: Clay dominated, very shallow in general, with more loam and hillside alluvials in the northern section. Yields typically are restrained by the hard clay-pan subsoil, which prevents deep-rooting.
Principal varieties & characteristics: Chardonnay: minerally pear-apple and spice flavors. Merlot: sinewy and lightly herbal, with fine tannins and sleek structure. Pinot Noir: ripe cherry-cinnamon spice flavors with earthy notes.

Mount Veeder
Climate: Cool to moderate, with most vineyards above the fog-line, meaning warmer nights and cooler days and less diurnal range than the valley floor. Typical mid-summer high temperatures about 85°F (30°C).
Elevation: 600 to 2100 ft. (183 to 650m).
Rainfall: 35 inches (87.5cm) annually.
Soils: Sedimentary based, former seabed, shallow and generally well drained, as well as more acidic, with low fertility. Most have a sandy or sandy-loam texture.
Principal varieties & characteristics:
Age-ability is a hallmark of Mt. Veeder wines. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel: Low yields give red wines a firm, tannic structure with strong earth-berry aromas and rich, but powerful flavors. Chardonnay: minerally, appley, even citrus flavors with good acidity.

Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley
Climate: Moderate to cool: marine air and fog can remain until mid-morning. Late afternoon breezes frequently occur, maintaining slightly cooler temperatures than upper valley. Mid-summer temperatures may reach 92 degrees F (31.5 C) and drop to around 50F (10C) at night.
Elevation: sea level to 800 feet (244m)
Rainfall: 36 inches (90cm) annually.
Soils: The valley's largest alluvial fan formed by Dry Creek creates the defining feature of the district. The northwest area is composed of volcanically derived soils, with stony or gravelly consistency. South and east areas are transitional from gravel to silty clay loam.
Principal varieties & characteristics: Merlot, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon benefit from a longer growing season with slightly cooler temperatures, though crop size is typically less than in other AVAs. Elegant style is the common note with fruit flavors of cassis, tobacco and spice typical to Bordeaux-style reds. Chardonnay showcases flavors of crisp apple, mineral notes and tropical fruit with fine acidity.

Oakville
Climate: Moderately warm, with temperatures commonly in the mid-90°F range in high summer, but also still strongly affected by night and early morning fog which helps keep acidity levels good. East side of the AVA receives more of warmer afternoon sun.
Elevation: 75 to 500 ft (23 to 150m).
Rainfall: 35 inches (87.5 cm) annually.
Soils: Primarily sedimentary gravelly alluvial loams on the western side, with more volcanic but heavier soils on the eastern side. Low to moderate fertility and fairly deep, with average water retention.
Principal varieties & characteristics: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot: Ripe currant and mint flavors, rich texture and full, firm structure tempered by rich fruit. Sauvignon Blanc: Full, steely, yet very fleshy, and not especially crisp.

Rutherford
Climate: Moderately warm, still marginally influenced by early morning fog. Western bench area is cooler, with less late afternoon sun, tempered by afternoon marine winds. (This AVA averages a bit warmer than Oakville and Stags Leap District). Usual summer peak temperatures are mid-90°F with good diurnal range.
Elevation: 100 to 500 ft. (33 to 150m).
Rainfall: 38 inches (95 cm) annually.
Soils: Western benchland is sedimentary, gravelly-sandy and alluvial, with good water retention and moderate fertility. The eastern side has more volcanic soils, moderately deep and more fertile.
Principal varieties & characteristics: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Zinfandel: This is "Cabernet country." Quite intense cherry and mineral, almost earthy aromas. Flavors are full, ripe, and notably currant with firm, but supple tannins for extended aging.

St. Helena
Climate: Warm, due to greater protection from western hills, with less fog or wind incursions. The narrowing of the valley floor provides more heat reflection off the hillsides. Mid-summer temperature peak is often in the mid- to high 90°F range (31 to 35°C).
Elevation: 150 to 600 ft. (46 to 185m).
Rainfall: 38 to 40 inches (95 to 100cm) annually.
Soils: South and west borders are more sedimentary, gravel-clay soils, with lower fertility and moderate water retention. Further north and to the east soils are prevalently volcanic in origin and are deeper and more fertile.
Principal varieties and characteristics: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot: deep, ripe, often jammy flavors, with firm tannins for structure, and appealing aromas of currant and black fruit. Rhone varieties (Syrah, Viognier): Fleshy, supple and slightly earthy. Zinfandel: Blackberry-like, well-structured.

Spring Mountain District
Climate: Similar to Mt. Veeder AVA, with cool weather prevailing and smaller diurnal changes. Fairly cool nights and higher elevations help maintain good acidity.
Elevation: 600 to 2200 ft (184 to 675m).
Rainfall: 40 to 50 inches (125cm) annually.
Soils: Primarily sedimentary; weathered sandstone/shale, loamy and friable in texture. Drainage is high, fertility low.
Principal varieties & characteristics: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel: Powerful, firm, blackberry-currant flavors and often richly tannic, with excellent acidity for aging. Chardonnay, Viognier: Sinewy, firm and not as fruity as those of the valley floor, revealing more citrus and stone fruit flavors.

Stags Leap District
Climate: Moderately warm, with afternoon marine winds acting as an 'air-conditioner' to cool the warmer air radiating off the bare rocks of Stags leap itself and the surrounding hillsides. This AVA is often up to 10deg. warmer than in Yountville AVA. Mid-summer temperatures can reach 100°F, but more regularly are in mid-90 range (32-34°C).
Elevation: 66 to 400 ft. (20 to 123 m).
Rainfall: 30 inches (75cm) annually.
Soils: Volcanic gravel-loams on the floor of the valley, with rocky hillsides, and low to moderate fertility due to hard clay bedrock sub-soils 2 to 6 feet down.
Principal varieties & characteristics: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese: Distinguished by lush, velvety textures and fine perfumed cherry and red berry flavors, supported by soft tannins. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc: Round and ripe, especially Sauvignon Blanc, yet retain excellent citrus and apple flavors.

Wild Horse Valley
Climate: A warmer area well to the east of Napa Valley proper, but still moderated by both altitude and prevailing winds coming off Suisun Bay to the Southeast.
Elevation: Wild Horse Valley 400 to 1500 ft. (123 to 460 m).
Rainfall: 35 inches (94 cm) annually.
Soils: Volcanic in origin, with basaltic red color, shallow with limited water retention, so irrigation is often essential.
Principal varieties & characteristics: Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese: Bright berry and cherry fruit, and more acidity than wines from Stags Leap District. Chardonnay: Crisp, flora, aromatic, with distinctive pear-mineral flavors and bright acidity.

Yountville
Climate: Moderate, with definite cool marine influence and fog contributing to cool summer mornings and the marine breeze keeping afternoons more comfortable than further up valley. Mid-summer peak temperatures may reach 90°F (31°C), with noticeable diurnal fluctuation to the mid-50°F range (13°C).
Elevation: 20 to 200 ft (6 to 61m).
Rainfall: 32 inches (80 cm) annually.
Soils: Principally gravelly silt loams, sedimentary in origin, and gravelly alluvial soils with rock, moderately fertile.
Principal varieties & characteristics: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot: Yountville favors Cabernet and Merlot with ripe, violety aromas and rich, but supple flavors and firm tannins.

Varietals grown in Napa Valley

Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Sauvignon is the acknowledged "king" of red grapes in Napa Valley. Some Napa Valley Cabernet vines from the 19th century are still producing, but most were replanted in the last 20 years. Cabernet Sauvignon is a complex grape; its character can emerge as black currants, green olives, herbs, bell peppers or combinations of these with mint and leather. These wines age beautifully. When young they are best matched with robust red meat dishes; older Cabernets are superb accompaniments to roasts and steaks, and also complement many cheeses.

Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc is lighter than Cabernet Sauvignon (of which it is a parent), contributing finesse and a peppery perfume to blends with more robust grapes. Depending on growing region and the style of wine, additional aromas can include tobacco, raspberry, and cassis, sometimes even violets. The Cabernet Franc wine's color is bright pale red.

Merlot
Merlot has long been available in Napa Valley. Traditionally used as a blending wine, Merlot gained popularity in the early 1970s. Wines made from Merlot show lovely cherry-like aromas with hints of their sibling Cabernet's herbaceousness. Because Merlot's tannins are softer than those found in Cabernet, the wines are drinkable at an earlier age than most Cabernets. At the same time, Merlots reward aging by gaining finesse and complexity much as Cabernets do. Serve Merlot with any dish that calls for Cabernet or try it with lighter meats such as pork or veal.

Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir has been called the fickle grape variety because it makes some of the world's best wines (Burgundian red) but is also one of the most difficult grapes both to grow and vinify. In France, these wines are exceptional only a few years in a decade. In California it has taken decades to make truly great Pinot Noir, and much progress has been made in the last 8 to 10 years. Pinot Noir is less tannic and has less pigment than Cabernet and Merlot, so the wines are somewhat lighter. They can be very drinkable at two to five years of age and the best will improve for several years after that.

Pinot Grigio
In California, the Pinot gris are more light bodied with a crisp, refreshing taste with some pepper and arugula notes.The grape grows best in cool climates, and matures relatively early with high sugar levels. This can lead to either a sweeter wine, or, if fermented to dryness, a wine high in alcohol. Clusters of Pinot gris may have a variety of colors in the vine. These clusters can range from bluish grey to light pinkish brown. The grapes grow in small clusters (hence the pine-cone shape), and upon ripening, often display a pinkish-gray hue, although the colors can vary from blue-gray to pinkish-brown. Pinot Gris is often blended with Pinot Noir to enrich and lighten the Pinot Noir's flavor.

Sangiovese
Sangiovese is an Italian varietal that has gone from cult status to full-blown success in the '90s. Napa Valley produces Sangioveses that are often ready to enjoy upon release. With hints of cherries, black tea and spice, these wines enhance a wide variety of foods. Certainly with an array of creamy dishes and cheeses, mushrooms and game, this wine says mangia! In the mouth, Sangiovese is usually lighter than Cabernet, yet more full-bodied than its French cousins such as Gamay and can be as comfortable at a well-set table as at a picnic.

Zinfandel
Zinfandel, one of California's most versatile and friendly grape varieties, was the mainstay of 19th century wine-making. Much of the world's Zinfandel acreage is planted in the Napa Valley. This varietal is vinified as a light, easy-drinking red and a heavier, richly flavored version that rewards bottle aging, as well as a white or "blush" wine. With such a range of wine types, there is a Zinfandel for just about every wine enthusiast and for every imaginable food.

Chardonnay
Chardonnay is among the most widely planted grape variety in Napa Valley. In France, the great white Burgundies are made from the Chardonnay grape and Napa Valley labels have repeatedly won wine-tasting competitions against them, even in France! Napa Valley makes several types of Chardonnay, ranging from fresh, crisp wines to rich, complex wines with layers of flavors. With such a wide range of styles, Napa Valley Chardonnays accompany a variety of dishes, from simply prepared seafood to lighter red meats.

Malbec
The Malbec grape is a thin-skinned grape and needs more sun and heat than either Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot to mature. It ripens mid-season and can bring very deep color, ample tannin, and a particular plum-like flavor component to add complexity to claret blends. The grapes tend to have an inky dark colour and robust tannins.

Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo produces lightly colored red wines can be highly tannic in youth with scents of tar and roses. As they age, the wines take on a characteristic brick-orange hue at the rim of the glass and mature to reveal other aromas and flavors such as violets, tar, wild herbs, cherries, raspberries, truffles, tobacco, and prunes. Nebbiolo wines can require years of aging to balance the tannins with other characteristics.

Petit Verdot
Petit Verdot is a variety of red wine grape, principally used in classic Bordeaux blends. It ripens much later than the other varieties in Bordeaux, often too late, so it fell out of favor in its home region. When it does ripen, it is added in small amounts to add tannin, color and flavor to the blend. It has attracted attention among winemakers in the New World, where it ripens more reliably and has been made into single varietal wine. It is also useful in 'stiffening' the mid palate of Cabernet Sauvignon blends. When young its aromas have been likened to banana and pencil shavings. Strong tones of violet and leather develop as it matures.

Petite Syrah
The "petite" in the name of this grape refers to the size of its berries and not the vine, which is particularly vigorous. The leaves are large, with a bright green upper surface and paler green lower surface. The grape forms tightly packed clusters that can be susceptible to rotting in rainy environments. The small berries creates a high skin to juice ratio, which can produce very tannic wines if the juice goes through an extended maceration period. In the presence of new oak barrels, the wine can develop an aroma of melted chocolate.

Syrah/Shiraz
It is called Syrah in its country of origin, France, as well as in the rest of Europe, Argentina, Chile, Uruguay , and most of the United States. The name Shiraz became popular for this grape variety in Australia, where it has long been established as the most grown dark-skinned variety. In Australia it was also commonly called Hermitage up to the late 1980s, but since that name is also a French Protected designation of origin, this naming practice caused a problem in some export markets and was dropped. The name Shiraz for this grape variety is also commonly used in South Africa and Canada.

Sauvignon Blanc
Sauvignon Blanc grapes make wines that appear under two names: Sauvignon Blanc and Fumé Blanc (a regional French nickname is "blanc Fumé"). These wines are increasingly popular as they have a distinctive character, often described as fruity with a touch of herbaceousness, and very good acidity. As with Chardonnay, you will find a range of styles - those that are crisp and "grassy" and others that have a ripe pineapple richness augmented by an oak bouquet. Because of their acidity, Sauvignon Blanc and Fumé Blanc are very enjoyable with shellfish and seafood.

I hope you have enjoyed this look at The Napa Valley, its wines and its history.

Bon Appetit, 

Lou

Sources: www.napavintners.com/bigsoccer.com, Wikipedia, pantilat.wordpress.com, napalinks.com, vineyardforsale-napa.com

Friday, August 29, 2014

Dumplings Around The World.....who knew?

So, I decided to explore the world of dumplings. I thought in all honesty, "This will be a nice, short, concise article." That statement turned out to be very uninformed and not well thought out. Why? Because after I Googled the word dumplings, I was looking at 3,440,000 results. Okay, turns out I'm a dumpling neophyte and there are literally 100's, if not 1000's of types of dumplings. In some regions of the world, much like dialects, dumplings can change from village to village and even house to house, creating myriads of different recipes and nuances. Who knew?

The following is a result of my trek through the world of dumplings, the information gleaned from hours long research on the web and of course on the plate in front of me. Hey, it's my job! How do I know if I don't prepare and eat it myself? When finished reading, while you may not be an expert, you'll be a hit the next time you and your foodie friends bring up that oh so hot party topic....gnocchi.

From simple 'chicken and dumplings' to the more exotic international varieties, I'll delve into the starchy goodness of this wonderful little comfort food. It seems that nearly every nation has some form of dumpling, and it's easy to see why. They are tasty, versatile and when feeding a family, very filling. I'll cover some of the international variations, mostly sticking to the basics. Each nation's dumpling offering gives you a great starting point for your own recipe experimentation as well. You never know, 50 years from now, it could be your family's version that makes it into some future food writer's article. Let's get started...

Chinese Cuisine
The jiaozi is a common Chinese dumpling which generally consists of minced meat and chopped vegetables wrapped into a piece of dough. Popular meat fillings include ground pork, ground beef, ground chicken, shrimp and even fish. Popular mixtures are pork with Chinese cabbage, lamb with spring onion, leeks with eggs, etc. They are usually boiled or steamed and are a traditional dish for Chinese New Year's Eve. Family members gather together to make dumplings.

The other version of the Chinese dumpling is made of rice, with meat and vegetables stuffed into it. It is then steamed or boiled. If fried in a small amount of oil, they are called guotie or potstickers. Compared to wontons (dumplings served boiled in a soup), jiaozi have a thicker skin and are bigger. Wontons are traditionally wrapped in rectangular dough, jiaozi in round. Chinese cuisine also includes sweet dumplings and the commonly called tangyuan. These are smaller dumplings made with glutinous rice flour and filled with sweet sesame, peanut or red bean paste. There are also other kinds of dumplings such as har kao, siew mai, small cage-steamed bun (xiaolongbao), pork bun and crystal dumplings. When it comes to dim sum, just type the word in your browser and numerous descriptions are at your finger tips. Variations of Chinese dumplings are also found in the Philippines, Korea and Japan.

British and Irish Cuisine

Savory dumplings made from balls of dough are part of traditional British and Irish cuisine. The simplest dumplings are dropped into a bubbling pot of stew or soup, or into a casserole. They sit partly submerged in the stew and expand as they are half-boiled, half-steamed, for ten minutes or so. The cooked dumplings are airy on the inside and moist on the outside. The dough may be simply flavored with salt, pepper and herbs, or the dough balls may have a filling such as cheese pressed into their center. Cotswold dumplings call for the addition of breadcrumbs and cheese, and the balls of dough may be rolled in breadcrumbs and fried, rather than cooked in a soup or stew. These sour-dough dumplings, when sweetened and made with dried fruit and spices can be boiled in water to make a dessert. In Scotland, this is called a Clootie dumpling, after the cloth.

Caribbean Cuisine
The Jamaicans created the first Caribbean dumplings, which were English-influenced. A simple recipe including self-rising flour, water and salt is made into a thick dough before frying on a pan until golden brown. These are usually rounded or rolled into balls and are served with Ackee and Saltfish or chicken as a side dish. Like English dumplings, they have a soft, fluffy texture. Eventually the recipe spread across the Caribbean as it reached the Lesser Antilles such as Barbados, Trinidad, Grenada and also the eastern section of the Dominican Republic, where the dish is known as dumplin. It was introduced to the island by immigrants from the British Lesser Antilles who went to work in the sugar industry. There is also a type of dumpling that is put into chicken stews. It is a mix of flour and water and boiled in the water with the meat. In Haiti there is a similar dumpling dish that is rolled into a ball or log shaped, which is then boiled in various soups, some which are known as bouillon.

Italian Cuisine
In Rome, you can sample some of the best gnocchi every Thursday night in a citywide tradition. Florence is home to strozzapreti, a gnocchi so good, rumor and legend has it that priests of an earlier period had been known to choke from eating them too fast. In true Italian fashion, their name means 'priest-stranglers.' The word gnocchi means "lump" or "knot" and is originally a Germanic word that may describe the distinctive shape of gnocchi. These delicious lumps do not just vary from region to region, but from household to household as well, depending upon what is available. However, the most common way to prepare gnocchi is to combine potatoes (boiled, peeled and mashed) with flour to form soft bite-size lumps of dough. Each gnocchi is then ridged along one side like a seashell; this gives the sauce a surface to cling to when eating. Gnocchi also come in different sizes, with gnocchetti being the smallest version. Other types of gnocchi are made with semolina flour, milk and cheese, also known as Gnocchi alla Romana.

When it comes to sauces for gnocchi, almost anything is acceptable from butter and sage, to a rich cheese sauce (such as Gorgonzola), tomato sauce or even pesto. Gnocchi are both delicious and very filling, making great use of just a few ingredients in near limitless ways.

Jamaican Cuisine
Dumplings or, as Jamaicans say, "dumplin," come in two forms: fried and boiled. Both are made with flour, either white or wheat, and the white-floured variety is often mixed with a bit of cornmeal. They are often served with dishes like Ackee, saltfish, kidneys, liver salt mackerel etc. and often taste better when refried. A refried dumplin is usually prepared a day after the boiled dumplin is first made. The boiled dumplin is thinly sliced and then fried, which gives it a slightly crispy outer layer and a tender middle. A purely fried white flour dumplin is golden brown and looks a lot like a roll, it is enjoyed predominantly as part of breakfast.

Peruvian Cuisine
In Peru there are a number of dishes that may be classified as dumplings. "Papas Rellenas" or stuffed potatoes consist of a handful of mashed potatoes (without the milk and butter) flattened in the palm of the hand and stuffed with a savory combination of ingredients. The stuffing usually consists of sauteed meat (could be beef, pork or chicken), onions and garlic. They are all seasoned with cumin, South American chillies, called Aji, raisins, peanuts, olives and sliced or chopped hard boiled eggs. After stuffing a ball is formed, rolled in flour and deep fried in hot oil. The stuffed potatoes are usually accompanied by onion sauce consisting of sliced onions, lime juice, olive oil, salt, pepper and slices of fresh chilli peppers. The same dish may also be made with seafood. In some countries yucca puree is used as the starch component of these Latin American dumplings.

Central European Cuisine
In Germany, Hungary, Austria, Poland, Czech Republic and Slovakia, dumplings, both sweet and savory, have been a staple of families for generations. A dumpling is called Klöße in Northern Germany, Knöpfle or Knödel in Southern Germany and Austria. There are flour dumplings, the most common dumplings, thin or thick, made with eggs and semolina flour, boiled in water. Meat dumplings (called Klopse or Klöpse in North-Eastern Germany, Knöpfe and Nocken are in Southern Germany) contain meat or liver. Liver dumplings are frequent additions to soup. The most famous German meat dumplings are Königsberger Klopse which contain anchovy or salted herring and are eaten with caper sauce. Thüringer Klöße are made from raw or boiled potatoes, or a mixture of both, and are often filled with croutons. Bread dumplings are made with white bread and are sometimes shaped like a loaf of bread, and boiled in a napkin, in which case they are known as napkin dumplings (Serviettenknödel). In the Hungarian cuisine the dumplings are called galuska - small dumplings made from a thick flour and egg batter which is cut into small pieces, and thrown into boiling water, similar to Spätzle or Knödel. Sweet dumplings are made with flour and potato batter, by wrapping the potato dough around whole plums or apricots, boiled and rolled in hot buttered bread crumbs. Shlishkes or Krumplinudli are small boiled potato dumplings made like the sweet plum dumplings, also rolled in hot buttered bread crumbs.

Eastern European Cuisine
In Siberia dumplings are called pozi (buuz in Mongolian). They are usually made with an unleavened dough. The traditional filling is meat, but the kind of meat and how it is processed varies. In Mongolia, mutton is favored, and is chopped rather than ground; pork and beef mixes are more popular in Russia. Unlike most other European dumplings, a poza is steamed not boiled.

Norwegian Cuisine
In Norway, dumplings have a vast variety of names, as the dialects differ a lot. Names include (ready inhale): potetball, klubb, kløbb, raspeball, komle, kumle, kompe, kumpe, kodla, kudle, klot, kams, ball, baill, komperdøse, kumperdøse, kompadøs, ruter, ruta, raskekako, risk, klotremat, krumme and kromme. (Whew, say that five times fast!) Usually made from potatoes and various types of flour and boiled, occasionally containing pork, like bacon, in the middle. In some areas it is common to use syrup along with the dumplings.

Swedish Cuisine
In the north, they are usually called Palt, or Pitepalt, filled with salted pork and eaten with melted butter and lingonberry jam. In the south it is called Kroppkaka, and is usually filled with smoked pork, raw onions and coarsely ground pepper and served with cream and lingonberry jam.

Himalayan Cuisine
Nepal, Tibet and Sikkim's steamed dumplings are known as 'momos' and are a popular snack. Similar to the Chinese jiaozi, they probably arrived with the influx of Tibetan refugees into Nepal during the 1950s. Many different fillings, both meat-based and vegetarian, are common. It is also very famous in Newar Communities which has adopted the dish and is one of the mostly eaten snacks and meal in Kathmandu Valley. The people there have adopted the dish calling it MO:MOcha (mo mo) in newari.

Indian Cuisine
Karanji are fried sweet dumplings made of wheat flour and stuffed with dry coconut delicacies. They are popular with the Maharastrians and the South Indians. Also popular is the Modak, made of fresh coconut, jaggery or sugar and steamed rice dough. It is eaten hot with ghee.

Kozhukottai (Tamil) or Modagam or Kajjikayi (Telugu), also found in the south, are either sweet, salty or spicy versions. In the sweet version, a form of sweet filling made with coconut, boiled lentils and jaggery is used, whereas, the salty version, is a mixture of steamed cracked lentils, chillies and some mild spices.

Japanese Cuisine
Bocchan dango is a fried dumpling made from eggs and eaten with dashi and known as akashi no tamagoyaki. Similarly shaped dumplings, but with octopus (or sometimes konnyaku) and flavored with pickled ginger, negi (welsh onion) and other ingredients, are a Kansai dish known as takoyaki. The gyoza is the Japanese version of the Chinese jiaozi. Made from rice flour it is often served with green tea.

Korean Cuisine
Called mandu they are similar to Chinese and Japanese dumplings. Typically filled with a mixture of ingredients; ground pork, kimchi, vegetables, or cellophane noodles, there are many variations. Steamed, fried, or boiled, they can also be used to make a soup called mandu guk(soup).

Jewish Cuisine
Matzah balls are particularly popular during Passover, when matzah meal is often used in observant Ashkenazi Jewish households as flour may not be used. Some recipes may add a number of ingredients. Butter is not used as milk products are not allowed to be used in chicken (meat) soup in accordance with the rules of Kashrut. There are even recipes for fat-free Matzah balls. Handmade, the balls are shaped then placed into a pot of salted, boiling water or chicken soup. The balls swell during the boiling time and come out light or dense, depending on the recipe. Roughly spherical, they range anywhere from a couple of inches in diameter to the size of a large orange, depending on preference.

American Cuisine
Chicken and Dumplings is easily the most common preparation using dumplings in the United States. Popular varieties of southern dumplings can be made with eggs, milk, baking powder and/or yeast, or just flour and water. In Kentucky, dough is dumped into boiling chicken broth along with a variety of vegetables. In the Allegheny Mountains of central Pennsylvania, "Pot Pie" is dough made from flour and broth [usually ham], cut into squares and boiled in the same broth with potatoes.

There you have it. Well, most of it anyway. I am always fascinated by the fact that the more I explore the world of food with and, for you, the more I am convinced that many food traditions prepared by families throughout the world, expose the commonality of being human. Though raised in diverse locations, with different cultures and backgrounds, there are certain cuisine staples that cross international boundaries. Most of us, no matter who we are or where we live, can remember some form of dumpling and those things that define comfort food for us. Dumplings are universal. Though the names are different, the faces, the memories and flavors are strangely familiar. Imagine that, a dumpling version of six degrees of separation. Who knew?

Bon Appetit,

Lou

ImageSources; export-italy.com , flyermall.com, elpatiolatino.com, veggiestyle.blogspot.com, szelaseuropeandeli.com, recept.nu, www3.utsidan.se, madteaparty.wordpress.com, tarladalal.com, ichinews.acc.vn, thekua.com

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

The World of Gourmet Salts, a definitive guide...

Salt is no longer just a condiment. It has risen to nouveau culinary stardom as the next designer specialty ingredient, so I've decided to break it all down for you and help you navigate the 'seas of salt.' Yes, I did go there, but then again, by now you should all know what you're in for when you read my articles. Though salt has been around for centuries, sea and artisanal salts have become the new must have ingredient for your pantry if you consider yourself a gourmet foodie. Specialty stores and gourmet sections of your supermarket all now include arrays of this 'jewel of the seas.'

So isn't salt just salt? Well... no. For those with discriminating palates, subtle variations in climate, local vegetation, sediments, minerals in the soils, and the infusion of herbs and spices, have taken sea and artisan salts to the top of the charts. Chef's and home cooks alike are all using salts in ways our grandmothers never envisioned. That is, of course, unless your grandmother was raised in France. The French have long embraced artisanal and sea salts as mainstays in gourmet cooking. There are now many companies on the market, offering salts infused with an infinite variety of herbs, flavors and ingredients, all of which can add that special touch to your meals and desserts. Designer finishing salts are now being combined with chocolates and truffles to bring out fantastic flavors and nuances never before explored.
First we're going to break down the basics of salt, then focus in on the sea and artisanal (or custom designed) varieties.

Salt (sodium chloride) 101:
All the salt that we consume is made from either sea salt, which includes bay and ocean salt, or that which is mined from inland deposits. Himalayan salt, for instance, is mined from deep inside the Himalayan Mountains in Tibet, where it was deposited when the sea covered the area more than 250 million years ago.

There are four varieties of salt:
Iodized table salt: Not much to tell here as this is the basic shaker on the table most Americans are used to. Over 70 % of all salt sold in the US falls into this category. Table salt is refined salt, 99% sodium chloride. It usually contains substances that make it free-flowing, called anti-caking agents, such as sodium silicoaluminate or magnesium carbonate. Most refined salt is prepared from rock salt which are simply mineral deposits that are high in salt. These deposits were formed by the evaporation of ancient salt lakes, and may be mined conventionally, or through the injection of water. Injected water dissolves the salt so the brine solution can be pumped to the surface where the salt is then collected.

Kosher salt: Gets its name because of its importance in making meat kosher, not because it follows the guidelines for kosher foods as written in the Torah. The salt grains are larger than regular table salt grains, so when meats are coated in kosher salt, the salt dissolves more slowly, remaining on the surface of the meat longer and drawing out the fluids (blood) of the meat. Like common table salt, kosher salt consists of the chemical compound sodium chloride. Unlike common table salt, kosher salt typically contains no additives.

Sea salt: Created by evaporating sea water until you are left with salt. The more pristine and unique an area's salt content is, determines its value on the market. Unrefined sea salts are also commonly used as ingredients in bathing additives and cosmetic products such as bath salts, which use sea salt as its main ingredient and combined with other ingredients for its healing and therapeutic effects.

Fleur de Sel: Easily the highest rated salt by the world's leading chefs, this salt is the cream of the crop of Celtic sea salts. Harvesting only takes place in the summer months, when the sun is its strongest. Of note is how these top end salt varieties are harvested. Grey salt and Fleur de Sel are collected by hand with wooden rakes by artisan paludiers (salt harvesters, salt rakers or salt farmers ) who sweep the top of the evaporating sea water. This is the same, 1500 year old method developed by their Celtic ancestors, which earns the grey salt its alternate name of Celtic sea salt. New paludiers study for one year to learn the slow and precise movements and patient methods of the ancient craft. Most are drawn to the profession by a love of nature, working outdoors and the romance of tradition. The average age of a paludier is now under 40, thanks both to a renewed interest in the craft, and the explosion in popularity of sea salt. There are around 200 traditional paludiers in France today working the salt-marshes, producing an annual harvest of 10,000 tons of quality sea salt each year.

Sea & Artisanal Salts

ANGLESEY
Sea salt that has a soft, flaky texture and is from the water off of the west coast of Wales, where it is freshly harvested from the Atlantic waters that surround the Isle of Anglesey. The salt is also smoked over 800 year old Welsh oak chips, producing a champagne-colored flake with a delicate smokiness. Salt sold under the Halen Môn brand is Anglesey. Crunchy in texture, it is also available in a spiced form with peppercorns, cumin, coriander, turmeric, paprika, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, chili and cloves.

BLACK SEA SALT
A variety of unrefined mineral salts that range from dark grey to black in color, including Hawaiian volcanic sea salt (black lava salt) and Cyprus black sea salt. Indian black salt, or kala namak, is actually a pearly pinkish gray rather than black, and has a strong, sulfuric flavor. Available in very fine or coarse grain.

BAMBOO SALT or PARCHED SALT or JUKYOM or JOOK YEOM
A Korean salt made by roasting sea salt in bamboo cylinders plugged with yellow mud. The salt absorbs minerals from the bamboo and mud, which in turn leach the salt of impurities. A powerful ingredient in Taoist medicine, believed to inhibit the growth of cancer cells, cure fevers, relieve edema, and serve in remedies of dozens of other conditions.

 CELTIC SALT
A grey French sea salt, hand harvested using the Celtic method of wooden rakes allowing no metal to touch the salt. Celtic salts are available ground in different levels of coarseness. Celtic salt refers to naturally moist salts harvested from the pristine Atlantic seawater off the coast of Brittany, France. These salts, which are rich in trace mineral content, are available in coarse, stone ground, fine and extra fine grain.

CITRIC SALT or SOUR SALT or CITRIC ACID
A salt substance derived from acidic citrus fruits, such as lemon and limes, that is dried and formed into a powder or crystal. When used as an ingredient to flavor foods, it provides a distinctively sour or tart taste. It is a common substance used in canning, to keep the color of fruits from darkening, and is commonly used as a substitute for lemon juice.

COARSE SALT or GROS SEL or SALE GROSSO
Coarse salt is a larger-grained sea salt crystal. Most recipes calling for salt imply finely ground salt, however, many professional chefs prefer cooking with coarse salt because they can easily measure it with their fingers. It is less moisture sensitive, so it resists caking and is easily stored. Coarse salt is useful for making beds for oysters and salt crusts on meat or fish, for lining baking dishes and the rims of margarita glasses. Kosher salt and sea salt come coarsely ground.

FIOR DI SALE or FIOR DI SALE DI SICILIA
Like fleur de sel, this “flower of salt” is so-named because the delicate salt “flowers,” or crystals, comprise the top layer of the salt pans that rest on the surface of the sea. Fior di Sale comes from the Trapani area of Sicily and is harvested by master salt makers. It can only be harvested on windless mornings, when the surface waters of the Mediterranean are unruffled. It is a very white crystal with a much lower percentage of sodium chloride than regular table salt. It is rich in fluorine, magnesium, potassium and all the trace elements contained in sea water. It has a delicate, sweet flavor with good taste, not too strong or salty. A finishing salt, it should be sprinkled on salads, tomatoes, fish, to finish roasts and sauces, on buttered bread and bruschetta. It is extremely soluble and will dissolve even on cool foods.

FLAKE SALT
A light crystal salt with a snowflake like texture. Sea-waters are evaporated by the sun and wind producing salt brine that is slowly heated to the point where delicate pyramid shaped crystals of salt appear. The finished product is light, flaky sea salt. Flake salts are harvested all over the world: the Maldon River in England, Anglesey off the island of Wales, New Zealand and Australia. The pink flake salt shown here comes from Australia’s Murray-Darling River Basin, where a red pigment, carotene, is secreted by algae.

FLAVORED SEA SALTS or ARTISAN SALTS
Salts can be smoked or otherwise flavored by mixing them with spices (saffron), herbs (bay leaf, fennel, thyme), berries or other seasonings like truffles. Complex blends can be found, including those that mix sea salts with regionally-themed spices and herbs to create “Mediterranean” or “Southwestern” blends. The salts usually have a lot of visual appeal on top of foods and as plate garnishes because they are crafted for beauty, they make a better presentation than a home cook would achieve by combining sea salt with the same ingredients from the spice cabinet.

FLEUR DE SEL
French for “flower of the salt.” Like sel gris, it is also raked by hand from the salt ponds (fields) of the village of Guèrande, Brittany, on the coast of France. It is harvested from May to September; artisan paludiers patiently wait as the shallow pools of water evaporate, creating the precious salt crystals. The slightest movement will cause the “flower” to sink to the bottom, so salt can only be collected when the weather is warm and the sea is calm. For every 80 pounds of sel gris produced, only three pounds of fleur de sel is harvested. The salt rises to the top of the water, forming delicate flakes that, upon drying, are white and can acquire a pinkish hue. Long prized by chefs and gourmets for its high quality, fleur de sel provides a very delicate and somewhat earthy flavor. Like sel gris, it is an excellent cooking and finishing salt, smooth with a light crunch.

HAND-HARVESTED SALT
Artisan salt is hand-harvested in small batches all over the world. It can be evaporated in ponds or salt pans from any body of water. Based on the body of water, the salt will vary in texture and moisture content. The popularity of artisan salt has created cottage industries in artisan salt. Cayman Sea Salt is an example, located in the popular Cayman Islands tourist destination, between Cuba and Mexico.

HAWAIIAN SEA SALT
There are two distinct varieties of salt from the Aloha state. Black Lava Salt: This salt is created with purified sea water that is evaporated in pools with purified black lava rock to add minerals. It is then dried in a greenhouse.

The second is called Alaea: On the island of Kauai, sediment of iron oxide-rich red volcanic clay seeped into the ocean from its rivers. Alaea takes its name from the area’s red volcanic clay. The clay imparts a subtle flavor that is more mellow than regular salt. This natural additive is what gives the salt its distinctive pink color. It is the traditional and authentic seasoning for native Hawaiian dishes such as Kalua Pig, Poke and Hawaiian Jerky. Also good on prime rib and pork loin. Hawaiian Sea Salt comes in fine and coarse grain.

KALA NAMAK
Also known as black salt or sanchal, an unrefined volcanic table salt with a strong sulfuric flavor. Despite its name, kala namak, which is mined in Central India, is actually light pink in color. It is mineral-rich and most often used to flavor Indian dishes like chaats, vegetable and fruit salads.

ORGANIC SALT
Certifying organizations include Bio-Gro in New Zealand, Nature & Progres in France and Soil Association Certified in Wales.While the standards are not the same as botanicals, agriculture or livestock, these various organizations are setting up rigorous guidelines for the production of organic salt. They ensure the purity of the water, cleanliness of the salt beds and strict procedures on how the salt is harvested and packaged etc.

 PERUVIAN PINK SEA SALT
This salt is harvested from an ancient ocean now underground, which feeds a spring located 10,000 feet high in the Andes. The salt has a mineral quality. Sprinkle a few grains on sliced ripe tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, and potatoes.

PINK HIMALAYAN SALT
Mined from deep inside the Himalayan Mountains in Tibet, Pink Himalayan salt was deposited when the sea covered the area more than 250 million years ago. Often the salt is brought down from the mountains on the backs of yaks. It is available in a variety of grinds, as well as in block form where a grater is used.. The unrefined and unpolluted pink translucent crystals have a subtle, crunchy texture.
  
SMOKED SALT
A relatively new category of gourmet salts, which can be naturally smoked over wood fires to infuse the salt crystals with natural smoke flavor, or be artificially infused. Smoked salts add a smoke house flavor to a wide range of dishes including roasts, chicken and grilled meats, salmon, soups, salads and sandwiches, steamed vegetables, on corn, egg dishes, on baked potatoes, or as a dry rub. Interesting in color, sprinkle as a decorating garnish—or use as a glass rimmer on a Bloody Mary. Examples include alder smoked salt and tropical sea salts that have been smoked over coconut shells and kaffir lime leaves.

These salts can raise the level of your presentations, adding subtle and wonderful flavors to any traditional dishes you may create, while at the same time, fostering a creativity and propensity to have you think outside the norm of what is your comfort zone. Adding a few jars of these exotic tastes to your pantry will cause you to explore more of the the world with your palate. As I sit here looking at a jar of lavender infused salt and another infused with truffle, I am inspired to go search through my cabinets for some other bought, but long forgotten ingredients that I can take on the culinary journey with me. Today's gourmet trends can be the perfect vehicle when searching out new cultures, flavors, experiences and ideas.

Bon Appetit!
Lou

Credits: Some of the photo's in this feature have been provided by Mark Bitterman, atthemeadow.com, himalasalt.com & saltnews.com