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Thursday, May 08, 2014

A Comprehensive look at Tequila....From Agave to Azul ©

"Tequila is Mexico," said Carmelita Roman, widow of the late tequila producer Jesus Lopez Roman. "It's the only product that identifies us as a culture."

To understand tequila, you have to first appreciate its importance to the overall culture of Mexico and tequila's place in its history. Say the word tequila and it immediately brings to mind images of Pancho Villa, Cinco de Mayo, men riding the dusty roads of the old 'west' and of brightly-dressed señoritas spinning around the fountains marking the center of most Mexican towns, whirling in traditional dance. But, it also suggests images of pop stars, margaritas and endless parties. For some, as I stated in my introduction, it also conjures up images of lampshades and nights better left conveniently forgotten.

Tequila is not simply a drink, it is a culture, an emblem, and a rallying call for Mexican identity. It is a tradition and heritage. It is about families and feuds, about land, politics, and it is an economic force. For all the marketing and the hype, the advertising and the promotion, tequila still retains its magic after its 400-plus year journey to get to this point. 

In "Tequila: Panegyric and Emblem, the Mexican Poet Alvaro Mutis wrote: "Tequila has no history; there are no anecdotes confirming its birth. This is how it’s been since the beginning of time, for tequila is a gift from the gods and they don’t tend to offer fables when bestowing favors. That is the job of mortals, the children of panic and tradition." ~Issue 27, Artes de México Magazine.

Now, those who know me are well aware of my love for tequila. I do not drink tequila often, but when out socializing, it is my drink of choice and I probably drink it more than most. That is, of course, unless you are still in Party Mode and are the "Hey let's do shots!" at the end of the night, after we're already pretty damaged. And no, I was never that guy. However, you didn't have to twist my arm after a Gig in the city at 2: AM, to go speakeasy Uptown, 125th St. for quiet cocktail and shoot some craps.'after hours.' (yea it's a real thing, lol) or poppin bottles in The Village at 4AM. The Death Squad is real. 

Been there, done that. Hopefully you'll grow, or have grown, out of that destructive trend and now enjoy sipping a fine snifter of barrel aged tequila with friends after dinner. Overlooking the Ocean. Like grown ups. Fortunately for me, I have developed a resistance to tequila's inebriation effects and seem to be able to consume it without damaging brain cells. Look, that's my story and I'm sticking to it. Well, ok, that is at least a factual statement in public. Ok, ok! I admit, there are stories that will pass to generations to come of my Holiday Tequila, Adventures. I'm weeping and twitching now, you happy? But Seriously..

At this stage in my life I have become a fan of the taste of tequila and the only true way (for me)  to enjoy that aspect of tequila is to sip it, in the same way one might sip a brandy, or a cognac. Shots, on the other hand are for enjoying the effects of tequila. Far be it from me to tell you what you should or should not derive from your personal interaction with this ancient elixir. To each his own. If you see me out, please don't challenge me to a shot contest. I said, "I try acting like a grown up in public" it doesn't mean I am one.

Whatever your fascination with tequila, I will explore every angle, from the agave plant, its history, cultivation and processing, all the way through to the finished distilled product. I will even give you step by step instructions on doing your own tequila tasting. Tomas Estes suggests that a champagne flute or any wine glass that is closed ended, or fluted at the top, will work. Not a shot glass!!! So without further ado, let's begin.

Agave
Say the word agave and most people automatically think, tequila. While technically correct, there are actually three distinct types of a plant named agave. The most familiar to all is the acclaimed Agave Azul, or Blue Agave, which, yes folks, indeed makes tequila and is the variety we will be focusing on today.

Chiefly Mexican, agaves occur also in the southern and western United States and in central and tropical South America. The plants have a large rosette of thick fleshy leaves, each ending generally in a sharp point and with a spiny margin; the stout stem is usually short, the leaves apparently springing from the root. Along with plants from the related genus Yucca, various agave species are popular ornamental plants. Each rosette is monocarpic and grows slowly to flower only once. During flowering, a tall stem or "mast" grows from the center of the leaf rosette and bears a large number of short tubular flowers. After development of fruit the original plant dies, but suckers are frequently produced from the base of the stem which become new plants (pups). It is a common misconception that agaves are cacti. They are actually closely related to the lily and amaryllis families, and are not related to cacti at all.

The agave plant plays a much larger role than just being the source of an alcoholic drink. Its leaves are harvested for a hemp-like fiber that is used for mats, clothing, rope and paper. It was also the source of the nutrient and vitamin rich brew, pulque. The plant was aptly described as "el arbol de las maravillas" - the tree of marvels - in a 1596 history of the Indians of Central America. The agave plant has been part of human culture almost since the continent was first colonized and is still used for its fiber. Human remains dating back at least 9,000 years (some ethnobotanists say 11,000) show the early uses of agave. Here is a brief snapshot of three types so you can amaze your friends with your knowledge of obscure facts.

Agave Americana
One of the most familiar species is Agave Americana, a native of tropical America. Common names include Century Plant, Maguey (in Mexico), or American Aloe (it is not, however, related to the genus Aloe). The name "Century Plant" refers to the long time the plant takes to flower, although the number of years before flowering occurs depends on the vigor of the individual plant, as well as the richness of the soil and climate. During these years the plant is storing in its fleshy leaves the nourishment it will need for the effort of flowering.

Agave Attenuata
A native of central Mexico, it is uncommon in its natural habitat. Unlike most species of agave, it has a a curved flower spike from which it derives one of its numerous common names - the Foxtail Agave. It is also commonly grown as a garden plant. Unlike many agaves, it has no teeth or terminal spines making it an ideal plant for areas adjacent to footpaths. Like all agaves it is a succulent and requires little water or maintenance once established.

Agave Azul
It has a lifespan of 8-14 years, depending on soil, climate and cultivation methods, and will be harvested at between 8 and 10 years.That's about 3,000 days before the harvest, a long time to wait. A farmer who plants a one-year-old shoot (hijuelo) today, in 2021, won't even harvest it for tequila until at least 2029, and maybe as late as 2031. Then, if it's aged at all, it could take another one to five years before it appears on the shelf - 2036-37. 
An agave is a one-time use. 
It's not like a grape where you can plant a vine and have grapes every year. 
Archeologists say agaves have been cultivated for at least 9,000 years, and used as food for even longer.

The tequila agave grows natively in Jalisco, favoring the high altitudes and sandy soil. Commercial and wild agaves. The flowers are pollinated by a native bat (Leptonycteris nivalis) and produce several thousand seeds per plant. The plant then dies. The shoots are removed when about a year old from commercial plants to allow the heart to grow larger. The plants are then reproduced by planting these shoots; this has led to a considerable loss of genetic diversity in cultivated blue agave. It is rare for one kept as a houseplant to flower; nevertheless, a fifty year old blue agave in Boston grew a 30 ft. stalk, requiring a hole in the greenhouse roof and it flowered sometime during the summer of 2006.

Tequila is produced by removing the heart of the plant in its twelfth year, normally weighing between 77–198 lb. This heart is stripped of leaves and heated to remove the sap, which is fermented and distilled. Other beverages like mezcal and pulque are also produced from blue and other agaves by different methods (though still using the sap) and are regarded as more traditional.


Over 200 million blue agave plants are grown in several regions of Mexico, but in recent years the ability of farmers to meet demand has been in question. Through poor breeding practices, blue agave has lost resistance to fusarium fungus and several other diseases which currently render 25%-30% of the plants unusable for consumption. Researchers from Mexico's University of Guadalajara believe blue agave contains compounds that may be useful in carrying drugs to the intestines to treat diseases such as Crohn's disease and colitis.

Important fact: When dealing with agave it is important to remember that the juice from many species of agave can cause acute contact dermatitis. It will produce reddening and blistering lasting one to two weeks. Episodes of itching may recur up to a year thereafter, even though there is no longer a visible rash. Irritation is, in part, caused by calcium oxalate raphides. Dried parts of the plants can be handled with bare hands with little or no effect. If the skin is pierced deeply enough by the needle-like ends of the leaf from a vigorously growing plant, this can also cause blood vessels in the surrounding area to erupt and an area some 63-64 inches across can appear to be bruised. This may last up to two to three weeks. And you thought Agave just hurt you when you drank too much of it. Ha!

Tequila, Mexico

History
Tequila was first produced in the 16th century near the location of the city of Tequila, Mexico although the city was not officially established until 1656. The Aztec people had previously made a fermented beverage from the agave plant, which they called octli (also called pulque), long before the Spanish arrived in 1521. When the Spanish conquistadors ran out of their own brandy, they began to distill this agave drink to produce North America's first indigenous distilled spirit.


Some 80 years later, around 1600, Don Pedro Sánchez de Tagle, the Marquis of Altamira, began mass-producing tequila at the first factory in the territory of modern-day Jalisco. By 1608, the colonial governor of Nueva Galicia had begun to tax his products.The tequila that is popular today was first mass-produced in the early 1800s in Guadalajara, Mexico.

Don Cenobio Sauza, (right) founder of Sauza Tequila and Municipal President of the Village of Tequila from 1884-1885, was the first to export tequila to the United States. Don Cenobio's grandson Don Francisco Javier gained international attention for insisting that "there cannot be tequila where there are no agaves!" His efforts led to the practice that real tequila can only come from the State of Jalisco.

The primary location for Tequila production is the Jalisco state around the towns of Tequila and Arandas, using only one species of plant, the blue agave. Tequila is an androgynous word, being written as both el tequila and la tequila in Spanish; masculine and feminine (although the masculine form is more commonly used). Technically, all tequila is a mezcal, as are all agave spirits, but like cognac is a brandy from a specific region of France, tequila is a mezcal from a specific region of Mexico.

Mezcal wine, tequila's grandparent, was first produced only a few decades after the conquest that brought the Spaniards to the New World in 1521. No one has ever come up with an exact date, but it was likely around 1535. It was variously called mezcal brandy, agave wine, mezcal tequila and finally, after a couple of centuries, one variety was simply called tequila.


The word tequila itself is also filled with mystery. It is said to be an ancient Nahuatl term. The Nahuatl were the original people who lived in the area. The word means (depending on the authority) "the place of harvesting plants," "the place of wild herbs," "place where they cut," "the place of work" or even "the place of tricks." According to Jose Maria, tequila comes form the Nahuatl words tequitl (work, duty, job or task) and tlan (place). Other sources say it means "the rock that cuts," most likely a reference to the volcanic obsidian that is common in the area. Obsidian was important for natives in making arrowheads, axes, cutting and scraping tools. It litters many fields and has even been incorporated into sidewalks in the town of Tequila. Cascahuin says the word is a corruption of "tetilla" because the volcano looked like a woman's small breast (somewhat dubious if you've seen the volcano)


Cultivation
The agave is planted, tended, and harvested by hand. The men who harvest it, the Jimadors, contain generations of knowledge about the plants and the ways in which they need to be harvested. The Jimadors must be able to work swiftly in the tight rows, pull out the pups without damaging the mother plant, clear the piñas (Spanish word for pineapple), and decide when and if each plant is ready to be harvested. Too soon and there are not enough sugars, too late and the plant will have used its sugars to grow a quiote 20-40 foot high stem or it will start to rot. The piñas, weighing 40 to 70 pounds, are cut away with a special knife called a coa. They are then shredded, their juices pressed out and put into fermentation tanks and vats. Some tequila companies still use the traditional method (artisan tequila) in which the piñas are crushed with a stone wheel. The final process is to add a yeast to the vats to convert the sugars into alcohol. Each company keeps their own yeast a tight secret.

There is a clear difference in taste between tequila that is made from lowland or highland agave plants. Agave plants that are grown in the highlands often have more fruit tastes due to the growing process. The plants are grown on the western side of the hills, allowing the plants to receive the most amount of sunlight throughout the day. These plants are taller, wider, and juicier. Agave that are grown in the lowlands have more earth tastes, and are typically on the smaller side.

It takes at least eight years to make a bottle of tequila, sometimes as long as 20. That's because tequila is not made from the typical grains or fruits most alcoholic beverages are made from. It is distilled from the roasted center (piña) of the blue agave (maguey) plant - the agave tequilana weber azul - one of 136 species of agave that grow in Mexico. Imagine having to plan - and budget - for a product you won't see for perhaps another decade. Imagine having to care for and nurture those agaves from their planting to their harvesting, many years later, without knowing how the market will unfold in the interim, but still having to hire farm workers to weed, prune and maintain the fields.


A one-liter bottle of limited-edition premium tequila was sold for $225,000 in July 2006 in Tequila, Jalisco, by the company Tequila Ley .925. The bottle which contains the tequila is a two-kilo display of platinum and gold. The manufacturer has received the Certificate from Guinness World Records for the most expensive bottle of spirit ever sold. While the bottle is impressive, my immediate thoughts were, "How does the tequila taste?" I'll use our favorite restaurant line here and embellish, "You can't eat the decor, nor can a fancy bottle make its contents quality."

In 2008, Mexican scientists discovered a method to transform 80 proof tequila into diamonds. This process involves heating the tequila to over 1,400 degrees F to vaporize the tequila. The tequila particles are cooled, and settle upon steel or silicon trays in an even, pure layer. The results are hoped to have numerous commercial and industrial applications, but are far too small for use in jewelry.

It is also a common misconception that all tequilas contain a 'worm' in the bottle. Only certain mezcals, usually from the state of Oaxaca, are ever sold con gusano. Renown tequila expert Tomas Estes suggests that the practice may have first been practiced as a way for tequila makers to show the quality and proof of their product, in that a larvae could be sustained by the proper alcohol
content. Recent use of this practice probably began, or was resumed, as a marketing gimmick in the 1940s. The worm is actually the larval form of the moth Hypopta agavis that lives on the agave plant. Finding one in the plant during processing indicates an infestation and, correspondingly, probably a lower quality product.


Types of Tequila

Blanco (white) or plata (silver): White spirit, un-aged and bottled or stored immediately after distillation, or aged less than two months in oak barrels;

Joven (young) or oro (gold): Un-aged "blanco" tequila, blended with rested or aged tequilas, and often with caramel coloring, sugar-based syrup, glycerin, and/or oak extract added so as to resemble aged tequila;

Reposado (rested): Aged a minimum of two months, but less than a year in oak barrels; Reposado may be rested in barrels or casks allowing for richer and more complex flavors. The preferred oak comes from the US, France or Canada, and while they are usually white oak, some companies choose to char the wood for a smokey flavor, or use barrels that were previously used to hold a different kind of alcohol ( i.e. whiskey, scotch, or wine in the case of Asombroso). Some reposados can also be aged in new wood barrels to achieve the same wood flavor and smoothness, but in less time.

Añejo (aged or vintage): Aged a minimum of one year, but less than 3 years, in oak barrels; Añejos are often rested in barrels that have been previously used to rest reposados. Many of the barrels used are from whiskey or bourbon distilleries in the US, France, or Canada (the most popular being Jack Daniels), resulting in the dark color and more complex flavors of the añejo tequila. Since most people agree that after 4 years of aging the tequila is at its best, the añejo can be removed from the wood barrels and placed in stainless steel tanks to reduce the amount of evaporation that can occur in the barrels.

Extra Añejo (extra aged or ultra aged): Aged a minimum of three years in oak barrels. This category was established in March 2006.


Drinking Tequila

When I drink tequila, I no longer do shots. I also do not add salt or lime. I began drinking silver (plata), but since its introduction in 2006, Extra Añejo (extra aged) has been my tequila of choice, though I still enjoy plata, as it is the most bold of all tequila types in its pure agavaceousness. If you see me drinking tequila, you will generally find me with a double snifter of chilled Don Julio 1942 or Don Julio Anejo, accompanied by an orange peel. As I have matured, my palate has changed and while many can tell stories of my days as a musician, accompanied by wild nights and yes shots, my consumption of this fine spirit has become a bit more refined.

In Mexico, tequila is drunk straight, without salt and lime. It is popular in some regions to drink fine tequila with a side of sangrita—a sweet, sour and spicy drink typically made from orange juice, grenadine (or tomato juice) and hot chilies. Equal-sized shots of tequila and sangrita are sipped alternately, without salt or lime.

Outside Mexico, a single shot of tequila is often served with salt and a slice of lime. This is called "tequila cruda" and is sometimes referred to as "training wheels," "lick-sip-suck," or "lick-shoot-suck" (referring to the way in which the combination of ingredients is imbibed). The drinker moistens the back of their hand below the index finger (usually by licking) and pours on the salt. Then the salt is licked off the hand, the tequila is then drunk and the fruit slice is quickly bitten. It is common for groups of drinkers to do this simultaneously. Drinking tequila in this way is often erroneously called a Tequila Slammer, but this is a mixed tequila and carbonated drink.

In Germany and some other countries, tequila oro (gold) is often consumed with cinnamon before and slices of orange after, (my preference) while tequila blanco (silver in Europe) is consumed with salt and lime. It should be noted that drinking higher-quality, 100% agave tequila with salt and lime is likely to remove much of the flavor.

A Tequila Tasting

Most would not realize a tasting of tequila in the same way as we taste wines, but in fact that is exactly the process and tradition I will now explain here. It is truly the only way to know if you are dealing with a quality product.


Tips for selecting a quality tequila
The first and most important rule is to analyze the label carefully to make sure that what you will taste or purchase is real tequila. This comment is meant to point out the fact that recently, store shelves have been stocked with products that can confuse consumers. Some producers have started bottling distilled beverages made of different types of agave, cultivated in areas outside the Appellation of Origin, Tequila. They normally use attractive bottles and labels that, by their shapes and tones, suggest that what they contain is tequila. For this reason, when purchasing take into account the following:

The word tequila should clearly stand out.
Make sure that the NOM (Official Mexican Standard) and CRT (Tequila Regulatory Council) are printed on the label. This guarantees the certification of these institutions.
For the tequilas that have been produced with only Tequilana Weber Blue Agave sugars, the description 100% Agave must be printed. When this description does not appear, assume it is a tequila that guarantees that at least 51% of its composition was processed with sugars from Tequilana Weber Blue Agave.Select a type of Tequila according to your personal liking: silver, gold, aged or extra-aged. These descriptions should be clearly printed on the label.

Be skeptical of the products that contain descriptions such as: 100% agave distilled, 100% natural, distilled of agave, etc. With this we do not mean to insinuate that they are products of bad quality, simply that they are not pure tequilas. Once you have ensured the recommendations mentioned above and selected your preferred brand and type of tequila, it is time for the tasting, so you can enjoy it with all your senses.

Note: Try not to experiment with distilled products other than tequila when your are living this experience. For the moment, concentrate on the tequila you have selected; taste it, appreciate it, indulge in it, but above all, consider the effects of the following day. Always try to drink only the good tequila that you find on your way, but never allow tequila to drink you.


Visual Test.

Tilt the glass forward with a white tablecloth as background and observe the color of the aged and extra-aged tequilas. In most cases, silver tequilas, with some exceptions, are crystal clear. Aged tequilas have a coloring that is a hay yellow with different intensities and their sparkles or glitters are gold. Extra-aged tequilas tend to have an amber color with different intensities and with copper sparkles.

At eye level, observe the brilliance, transparency and limpidness. Now gently swirl the glass and observe how it spreads on the walls of the glass, indicating the body of the tequila. From the top of the spreaded surface, a few drops should start to slowly slide down, indicating the quality of the body.


Olfactory Test
Draw your nose to the glass and inhale deeply, to perceive the primary aromas. Then, rotate the glass and sniff again to appreciate the secondary scents that are released after the the movement.

Considering the subtleness of the sense of smell, which according to the limits of each person allows us to identify known and unknown odors, we can appreciate the harmony and balance that tequila presents in its wide array of scents. The most common aromas are:

Silver Tequila: Herbal, citric, agavaceous, fresh fruit and floral
Aged Tequila: Agavaceous, ripe fruit, wood and spices
Extra-aged Tequila: Dried fruit, wood, honey, vanilla, olives and spices

Taste Test
When we refer to the term taste, not just as it applies to tequila, but also with regard to anything we taste, we should consider that only four basic flavors exist and can be detected by our taste buds.

Sweet on the tip of our tongue, salty on the lower sides; acid or sour on the upper sides and bitter in the back part. Besides these four flavors, we sense stimuli on the algid or tactile, parts of the mouth, which are stimulated by sensations of heat, cold, astringent and burning (like alcohol).

What is important in this case is to sense good harmony of the components and an acceptable aftertaste with prolonged and pleasant persistence. Sip a small amount of tequila, swish and retain in your mouth for a few seconds and expel (just like wine). With your mouth closed, exhale the air through the nose and you will still sense the aromas with a few changes caused by the chemistry of the inside of your mouth.


Tequila Pairing
Maridaje: The term maridaje, may refer to two things:

In production processes, it is the art of mixing or marrying tequilas of different barrels and different ages, to grant the tequila specific character which, at the same time, will appeal to consumers.
When enjoying tequila with foods, it refers to the appreciation of the different flavors that various dishes offer when combining them with different types of tequila.Strong flavors, which are especially hot and spicy in Mexican cuisine, should be accompanied by a fine, silver 100% agave tequila. When flavors are more mellow, gold/oro, 100% agave tequilas are our suggestion.


In the case of extra-aged tequilas, these are best when accompanying fine beef cuts, or strong earthy flavors, such as lamb, boar, etc. It is especially good as a digestive, at the end of a delicious meal accompanied by an Espresso, or a fine cigar if that is your preference. The best way to match a tequila with a certain dish is to trial test, memorizing those tequila types and brands which most appeal to your senses. It is convenient to follow the recommendations of the experts, but no one knows your likes and preferences better than you do. If you fully enjoy your tequila during the tasting and the following day you wake up optimistic and willing to repeat your selection, then you can be sure it was the appropriate choice.

Do not forget that when drinking an alcoholic beverage, it is advisable to moderate the intake, so that you may better enjoy it and also have a better chance of remembering it the next day as well...!

I hope you have enjoyed this quite thorough look at Tequila. With the list of new high-end varieties, drinking tequila has grown up from an adolescent repast to get us all snockered, into a refined mature adult worthy of our attention and respect.


As always, Bon Appetit!
Lou

Sources:  Juan Gnecco / FreeDigitalPhotos.net Wikpedia; National Chamber of the Tequila Industry, Tomas Estes all rights reserved *

Cassoulet....a dish of the people...

It is one of the classic dishes of the Languedoc and the whole of France. One legend places the birth of cassoulet during the siege of Castelnaudary by the Black Prince, Edward, Prince of Wales, in 1355. The townspeople gathered their remaining food to create a big stew cooked in a cauldron to nourish and bolster their defenders. The meal was so hearty and fortifying that the soldiers handily fought off the invaders, saving the city from occupation. While this is probably not the actual way it went down regrading the origin of cassoulet, one never knows and what is certain, is the importance of the dish as the symbolic defender of French culture.

But since then, several cities have laid claim to the true recipe. In an effort to quell a growing dispute and in a conciliatory gesture, chef Prosper Montagné decreed in 1929, " Le Cassoulet est le dieu de la cuisine occitane. Un Dieu en trois personnes: Dieu le père est celui de Castelnaudary, Dieu le fils est celui de Carcassonne et le Saint-Esprit qui est celui de Toulouse." ("God the father is the cassoulet of Castelnaudary, God the Son that of Carcassonne, and the Holy Spirit that of Toulouse."), making sure all three recipe versions were recognized as equal. Now that's village pride. Over a bean stew.

Andre Daguin, a famous chef of Gascony says, “Cassoulet is not really a recipe, it’s a way to argue among neighboring villages.” Much like chili cook-offs in Texas, cassoulet cooking competitions are held, not only in France, but now even in the United States as well.

Julia Child once quipped, “Cassoulet, that best of bean feasts, is everyday fare for a peasant but ambrosia for a gastronome, though its ideal consumer is a 300-pound blocking back who has been splitting firewood nonstop for the last twelve hours on a subzero day in Manitoba.” And finally, Anatole France claimed that the cassoulet at his favorite restaurant had been bubbling away for twenty years!

While this recipe won't take quite as long as Anatole's, this does require a good amount of time if you truly want to do it right. This is a hearty and great alternative to plain old stew and can be a great way to use up all those leftovers by simply adding some fresh ingredients and some extra TLC in the kitchen. And duck. To me, really great cassoulet has to have duck, but everyone's palate is different. Some really rustic and kicked up versions include rabbit and they are some of the best I have ever tasted as well. This dish requires a little more attention than most , but the outcome is well worth it. Especially if you have the duck.....

Elaine's Rustic Cassoulet
courtesy of Elaine Giammetta
Ingredients
1/2 lb bacon, cubed
1-15 oz can white kidney beans
1-15 oz can pinto beans
1 large Spanish onion, diced
10 garlic cloves, minced
3/4 lb ground pork
1/4 lb shredded duck confit
1 T dried parsley
2 T dried thyme leaf
1 T rosemary
1 bay leaf
1 t rubbed sage
1/4 to 1/2 c sherry (I use dry)
2-3 qts water (enough to cover all ingredients )
salt and pepper
fresh parsley

Method
In a slow cooker, or large heavy bottomed pot, spread the bacon cubes, evenly over the bottom of the pan. This will be the first layer. Drain and rinse the beans.

Mix beans, onion and garlic together and spread over the bacon creating the second layer. Crumble the ground pork and duck over the beans. This is the third layer.

Mix all the herbs together (except the bay leaf) and sprinkle over the meat. Add water and sherry making sure all the ingredients are covered. This is important, so to ensure proper cooking.

Add the bay leaf. Set temperature on very low and cook 6-8 hours or overnight if possible. If you are using a traditional pot, bring to a boil and then lower temperature and simmer on very low for 6-8 hours. After cooking is complete, gently stir in chopped parsley. Salt and pepper to taste.

Plating
Ladle into a bowl and top with a sprig of parsley. Serve with a warm baguette and a hearty glass of red wine. I chose a nice peppery Malbec. I hope you enjoy it.

Bon Appetit!

Lou
Sources:  en.wikipedia.org

"Making The Perfect Holiday Turkey"

Roasting a turkey during the Holidays can either make or break a successful meal. Like many at home cooks, I have a few horror stories of the days before I became the self proclaimed, "Gourmet Guy." I have also heard stories from others, both friends and family, about such things as leaving the plastic 'chitlins' bag' in the bird, raw and underdone turkeys, to piles of charcoal on a plate. In this installment, I am going to give you some fool proof rules-of-thumb and methods to insure that your Thanksgiving meal comes off as a complete success that will wow your guests. From the Menu Planning, to Proper Seasoning , to how to pick the right turkey, we'll take a look at all the basics.

How big of a turkey should I roast? 
Most importantly, we need to count the amount of guests we will be serving. A good rule of thumb to go by would be:
  • One (1) pound of raw turkey per person which includes a moderate amount for leftovers.
  • 1 1/2 pounds per person, if you have hearty eaters or want ample leftovers.
  • 3/4 pound of whole turkey per person for no leftovers.
To properly thaw the turkey (if frozen), I recommend leaving it in a refrigerator for 4-5 days to slow thaw under a cool temperature. If you are pressed for time, you may place it in a sink or a container in the sink and run cold water over it for a few hours. Once the bird is thawed, you are ready to prepare it for cooking.

Brining (optional)
Not every home cook will go the extra mile at home, but I’ve found that brining your turkey can incorporate a great level of flavor and make your turkey extremely moist. I typically brine most poultry and pork before cooking, and have made several different types of flavored brines. A brine by definition is; a strong solution of water and salt used for pickling or preserving foods. A sweetener such as sugar or molasses is sometimes added. I really enjoy molasses and brown sugar and balance it out with some savory herbs, bay leaves, peppercorns and garlic. Depending on the size of the bird, you can brine a turkey for a few hours, or even let it go overnight. But, it is very important to remember that the brining solution is high in salt and you must adjust and lessen the amount of salt you use in your seasoning when you prepare your turkey for roasting.

Seasoning & Prepping the Bird
The next step can be a lot of fun, as you get to be very creative with seasoning and preparing your turkey. Seasonings offer a great deal of flavor and can be as simple as salt and black pepper, or as elaborate as Cajun spice or a rub consisting of garlic, chilies and dried herbs. Be sure to rub the entire cavity with your seasoning blend of choice, and always lubricate the outside of the skin with oil or butter so the seasonings will adhere and cook into the bird.

*Tip For Crispier Skin
Crisp skin and a moist center is what we all desire when roasting the perfect turkey and I have learned a little trick to enhance the outer skin. Carefully lift the skin up around the bird and slide a few pats of softened butter underneath. Generously rub the outer skin with butter and your seasonings, and let them sink in for about an hour before roasting. Many family recipes include stuffing the bird with all kinds of aromatics or even a traditional bread stuffing. It is totally up to you to decide which way you want to go, but stuffing a turkey's cavity can really enhance the flavor of the meat.

Stuffing
There are two schools of thought when it comes to stuffing; In the Bird (stuffing) and & Out of the Bird (dressing). In my house we make both, or sometimes do a cornbread Oyster dressing (recipe below) as well. In some households, the turkey is stuffed with other birds; a boned chicken is stuffed into a boned duck, which is then stuffed into the turkey. Called a Tur-duck-en, this is actually not a new concept. In ancient Rome, as well as in medieval times, cooks stuffed animals with other animals.

Ten Bird Roast, but there's 12?
A 13th century Andalusian cookbook includes a recipe for a ram stuffed with small birds. A similar recipe for a camel stuffed with sheep stuffed with bustards stuffed with carp stuffed with eggs is also mentioned in T.C. Boyle's book Water Music. British celebrity chef Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall makes an incredible ten-bird roast, calling it "one of the most spectacular and delicious roasts you can lay before your loved ones." A large turkey is stuffed with a goose, duck, mallard, guinea fowl, chicken, pheasant, partridge, pigeon and woodcock. The roast feeds around 30 people and also includes stuffing made from two pounds of sausage meat and half a pound of streaky bacon along with sage, port and red wine. Wow, now that truly is a mouthful!

Turkey stuffing usually consists of bread crumbs or cubes, dried bread, with onion, celery, salt, pepper, and other spices and herbs such as sage, or a mixture like poultry seasoning. In some cases, sausage or oysters are added as well. The term stuffing usually applies to the mixture when it is placed into the bird, while dressing is usually used when cooked outside. If you want to add a little sweetness to the turkey, stuff the cavity with some apples and raisins. If you are looking for something more savory and herbaceous, try adding rosemary and thyme with a little garlic and onion. For our purposes here, and since I am the Gourmet Guy, we'll just stick to a traditional Oyster Stuffing.

Recipe 
Makes 14 cups
Ingredients
1 3/4 cups chicken stock
1/4 cup salted butter
5 cups crumbled cornbread
1 pound bulk pork sausage, rendered and drained of fat (optional)
Turkey giblets, cooked and chopped (optional)
1 1/2 cups chopped onion
3 stalks celery, diced (if you do not like cooked celery, as I do not, you can substitute a teaspoon of celery salt, but adjust your salt amount accordingly)
2 eggs
1 pint shucked oysters, drained, or more if desired (reserve the oyster liquor, should be about a 1/4 of a cup)
1 teaspoon poultry seasoning
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon dried sage
1 teaspoon paprika
Ground black pepper to taste

Method 
In a skillet, saute the celery & onions in butter until translucent. Remove. In the same pan, saute the sausage until just about done, but don't overcook. Drain.

In a large bowl combine the crumbled cornbread, cooked celery, cooked onions, cooked giblets, cooked sausage, oysters, parsley, salt, pepper, paprika, dried sage. Mix well.
Beat the 2 eggs. Add the eggs and chicken stock and oyster liquor to the stuffing mixture and thoroughly incorporate. 
In the bird:
Stuff the bird's cavity. Remove stuffing promptly once bird is cooked. 
Out of the bird:
Bake the stuffing in a large casserole dish in a preheated 350 degrees F (175 degrees C) oven approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes. 

Roasting Your Turkey
So, now that we are ready to roast, how do I know how long it should cook for, and how high the temperature should be? USDA says that a turkey should not roast under 325 degrees Fahrenheit, so that’s a fair starting point. Approximate cooking times for an unstuffed turkey are as follows: (it is around 20 to 30 minutes per pound) 
  • 10 - 18 lb bird 3 to 3 ½ hrs
  • 19 – 22 lb bird 3 ½ to 4 hrs
  • 22 – 24 lb bird 4 to 4 ½ hrs
  • 24 – 29 lb bird 4 ½ to 5 hrs
One helpful hint to achieving a nice golden skin, is to start the "searing" process by cooking it in a 400 - 425 degree oven for 10-15 minutes (depending on the size) to start the browning process (sugars begin to caramelize), then lower the temperature to 325 degrees and slow roast for the appropriate time. Basting is another way to impart even browning and to distribute some of those great flavorful juices. You may baste with the juices found in the bottom of the pan, or use some type of fat. Also popular, is to baste with another flavorful liquid, for example a brown stock fortified with apple cider vinegar and herbs. If the bird begins to brown too much, you may cover it with aluminum foil until it has reached doneness, and then finish for the last few minutes uncovered. Be careful not to cover the bird entirely, as you don’t want to steam the turkey.

How do I know if my bird is done? The USDA recommends that the turkey be cooked to a temperature of 165 degrees as measured in the innermost part of the thigh. If the thigh is 165 degrees, the breast meat is likely to be 10 degrees hotter. Many cooks would tell you that a turkey roasted to those temperatures is overdone and would taste unacceptably dry. Use a meat thermometer to check for doneness, try not to rely on those "pop up timers" that come with most turkeys. You can also prick the leg joint with a fork, and if the juices run just slightly pink or clear, the turkey is done.

To test the accuracy of your instant read thermometer, insert the tip about 2 inches deep into boiling water. At sea level it should register 212 degrees F. If it does not, replace it; or if it has a calibration device, reset it for accuracy. Nobody wants an overcooked bird, so start checking your bird about 3/4's of the way through the total recommended cooking time.

Gravy
Time to make the gravy!  On the stove top, use the same pan that you roasted this delicious turkey in. The drippings and leftover fat and liquid are going to make this gravy a very tasty one. I like to use a ratio of 1 Tablespoon of fat to 1 Tablespoon of flour to create a "roux" that will thicken my gravy. You can use chicken or turkey stock, or even just deglaze with sherry or white wine and add water. Just be sure to cook out the flour so it doesn’t leave a raw taste to the gravy. Season with salt pepper to taste.

Lou's Traditional Cranberry Sauce

Ingredients
12 oz Cranberries, Fresh Frozen
1 3/4 Cups Water
1 Cup Granulated Sugar
1 Cup Light Brown Sugar
2 Cup Orange Juice
1 Tbl Orange Zest, Chopped
1 tsp Ground Ginger
1/2 Cinnamon Stick


Method:
Place all ingredients in a sauce-pot, except the cranberries and bring to a boil. As soon as it boils, add the cranberries to the liquid. reduce heat to medium. Cook for approximately 5 minutes until all of the cranberries have "popped". Remove the cinnamon stick, and cool. The liquid will be loose and will thicken once it cools.

Turkey is done, gravy is ready and now it's time to roll out all the fix-ins. Cranberry sauce, sweet potato pie, cornbread stuffing, yams, green beans, creamed onions, apple and pecan pie are just some of my favorites! Try something new this year and let me know how it comes out! We all have a lot to be thankful for and I am very blessed with such wonderful family and friends. God Bless and Happy Thanksgiving. Don’t forget to save me some leftovers!

Bon Appetit,

Lou
Sources: http://www.originalcookware.co.uk/ mccormick.com, usda.gov

Did you know Lox & Gravlax are NOT the same? Well now you do and here's a recipe to make your own Lox.

If you have grown up in a Jewish or Scandinavian household, the tale I am about to tell is a part of your heritage. If not, fellow foodie, "just sit right back and you'll hear a tale..the tale of a fateful........salmon fillet!" Come with me on a journey to discover Lox, and, the common misconceptions that have been foisted on an unsuspecting public, even by supposed culinary luminaries. That, my friends, is why it's a good thing I am here for you; to diligently give you culinary info that is both factual and entertaining. (if I may say so myself.)
First let's start with the definitions. We have Lox, Gravlox, Nova Lox. All share one commonality but, as some of you may not be be aware, they are completely separate and different products.

Lox
Lox is salmon fillet that has been cured. In its most popular form, the one most of us are familiar with, it is thinly sliced, less than 5 millimeters (0.20 in) in thickness and typically served on a bagel with cream cheese, onion, tomato, cucumber and capers. It is traditionally made by brining in a solution of water or oil, salt, sugars and spices (the brine). This was a very important item in Ashkenazic Jewish cuisine, but most are surprised that it was actually introduced to the United States through Scandinavian immigrants, then popularized by Jewish immigrants. The term lox derives from Lachs in German and לאקס (laks) in Yiddish, meaning "salmon." It is analogous of the Icelandic and Swedish lax, the Danish and Norwegian laks, and Old English læx. It may be commonly referred to as regular lox or belly lox, though technically, with belly lox, the flesh on both sides of the stomach of the salmon has a wider graining of fat, is less salty tasting and is more desirable and accordingly, more expensive. Below is a recipe to make your own Lox, which is absolutely fabulous and worth the effort, especially if you are a lox lover.

Gravlax
Gavlax, or gravad lax is a Nordic dish consisting of salmon, cured in salt, sugar, and dill. Gravlax is usually served as an appetizer, sliced thinly and accompanied by hovmästarsås (also known as gravlaxsås), a dill and mustard sauce. It is served on either bread of some kind, or with boiled potatoes. In the Middle Ages, it was originally made by fishermen. They would salt the salmon, then bury it in the sand above the high-tide line. The word gravlax comes from the Scandinavian word grav, which literally means "grave" or "to dig" (Swedish, Norwegian, Danish, Dutch and Estonian), and lax (or laks), means "salmon." Thus, gravlax literally means "buried salmon." Today, the salmon is coated with a spice mixture, which often includes dill, sugars, salt, and spices like juniper berry. It is then weighted down, which helps to to force the moisture from the fish (see recipe below) and impart the flavorings.

Nova Lox
Nova or Nova Scotia salmon, sometimes called Nova lox (or simply "Nova"), is cured with a milder brine and then cold-smoked. The name dates from a time when much of the salmon in New York City came from Nova Scotia. Today, however, the name refers to the more mildly brined product, and the fish may come from other waters or in some cases is raised on farms.

Smoked Salmon
Finally, smoked salmon is NOT lox, though products are sold under the name lox. Smoked salmon is just... well... smoked salmon.

I hope this clears up any misconceptions.While I may be being a bit, nitpicky (if there is such a word), you all know I like my readers to be the best informed foodie at the party, or in this case, brunch. Never let it be said that The Gourmet Guy left you with a schmear on your face.

Recipe for making your own Lox
Ingredients
1~2.5 to 3lb. salmon fillet (I prefer to use a skinless fillet, but if you prefer a less salty version, leave the skin on and remove after brining.)
1 cup Kosher salt
1/2 cup granulated sugar
The juice and zest of 1 lemon
The juice and zest of 1 lime

You'll need:
A 15" x 10" x .3/4" cookie sheet. Enough parchment paper to fully wrap the salmon. Tin foil. Something to weigh down the fillet. I use 3 large, 35.0z. cans of tomatoes. You can use bricks wrapped in foil or anything heavy enough to press down the fillet.

Method
~Combine salt and sugar and divide in half.
~Zest lemon, zest lime and combine with the juice from both. Set aside.
~On the parchment paper, spread out 1/2 the sugar/salt mixture and spread evenly to allow salmon to rest completely on mixture.
~Place salmon on salt/sugar mixture and completely cover with the lemon/lime mixture.
~Add the remaining salt/sugar mixture and press into salmon, covering completely.
~Wrap the salmon in the parchment paper, making sure it is sealed and covers the salmon completely.
~Wrap the entire fillet with tin foil, being careful that the foil at no time touches any part of the salmon.
~Place on the cookie sheet, place weights on top and refrigerate for 48 hours.
~Once you remove the salmon, wash under cold water thoroughly to remove brine mixture. Portion in 6-8 oz. portions, seal in freezer bag and use as needed  Slice very thin and enjoy!!

As always, Bon Appetit!

Lou

Sunday, July 28, 2013

Up Close and Personal with author Randy Wayne White

I'm sitting here looking at the screen, fingers poised over the keyboard. I have to write about a writer. A prolific one. One in whose words I have taken wisdom, solace and enjoyment. One whose words have forced me to look inward at myself, without losing site of who and what lay before me.

In his stories, particularly those that are non-fiction, I have been made to consider how I impact all that is around me and how we, as human beings, interact and co-exist with not only those that surround us, but the environs in which we all reside. Through his Doc Ford novels, he has infused me with his absolute love for all that is Southwest Florida and be it politician or business man, I am hard pressed to find anyone who rivals this man's passion for his beloved Southwest Gulf Coast.

So of course my first idiotic instinct was to get out my thesaurus. Make this my soliloquy. Really impress my readers and this writer with the magnitude and capaciousness of my vocabulary. I'll tell ya, I've no better laugh than when I catch myself at these moments acting like a complete fool. I'm human. I'll admit it. I couldn't help myself. I'll try to restrain myself from this point on.

I also sat back and realized that by doing so, being verbose, (anyone who has ever met me will tell you I have few rivals in that area and I sometimes need to take a breath) I would betray everything I have come to learn from, and about, the man and his writing. He is one of my favorite authors, and, as I have had the good fortune of spending some quality time with him, one of my favorite human beings.

Well for one thing, he is living my dream. Randy has had more adventure than most of us could ever hope for in one lifetime. Our good fortune, as his readers, is that he also has a very special talent to not only take these journeys, but to write about them with a passion and style that allows us to vicariously live some of these special moments with him. I have read stated of him, "He is the George Plimpton of our day, who decided to write mystery novels." For those of you asking right now 'Who is George Plimpton, I can only begrudge you your youth and admonish you to go Google the name. If you are my age and don't know the name, you simply need to broaden your scope, your horizons and get out more. Really.

The man I met is a fascinating, humble, caring human being with a thirst for knowledge, lust for living life as if it were his last day, and whose heart and character are bigger than most I have encountered. He is forthright, honest almost to a fault, and his actions actually speak louder than his words. By the way, his words are pretty loud.

This is a man who took a boat and sailed to Cuba during the Mariel Boat Lift at the request of a friend seeking 2 people, and ended up bringing 147 back to the States. A man whose humanitarism brought joy to children of Cuba, giving them back Little League Baseball (see the video below). Co-founder of Florida's Big Brother program, he is a gentle soul who puts his money where his mouth is. Literally.

I was honored to have been invited out to his house to sit down and bring you this feature. I have come to understand that much like his character, Marion Ford, Randy is a private person who relishes his solitude, yet yearns for that human interaction we all need. He is just very selective in his tastes and without saying so, it is apparent at least to me, that he does not suffer fools nor the insincere.

He is a warm and genial host who opened his home and heart to me and he and his wife Wendy made me feel like part of the family from the moment I arrived until the moment I left. This is a man I would be proud to call friend. Not because of his celebrity. Not because of who he is or who he knows. Simply, because he's the kind of person that inspires one to be the best they can be. "Be relentless!" Well, that and, he's got a really well stocked bar on the porch! 

It is my sincerest hope that I get more opportunities to experience the wonderful persona that is the man behind his books. It is my distinct pleasure to bring you Up Close and Personal with N.Y Times best selling author and Southwest Florida's own, Randy Wayne White.

The Man

Lou: I’m a very big fan of your writing. Probably more so your non-fiction than your fiction.
RWW: Me too.

I'd like to get an idea of who you are. The guy who talks about wildly applauding when Nick finally says "dol dol dol dolphin." That’s who we want to speak to as opposed to the 'Doc Ford guy'. Obviously there is some dynamic of that, but it’s just an informal chat.
And this goes on the internet? You know, I’ve not seen your website.

You don’t know what you've missed.
But I will do that, I’ll do it today by gum

Good food, good wine, good living.
That’s a lovely idea
 
You were born in Ashland Ohio and grew up in the Midwest.
North Carolina and the Midwest. My maternal family is all from North and South Carolina.

You were quoted as saying "Other kids heros were ballplayers. Mine were writers. Conrad, Steinbeck and Twain." What were you aspirations as a kid?
(We) lived on a little tiny farm. In fact my screensaver has the view down the road from the farm where I lived. It was taken recently, so it’s far more built up. The little village of Pioneer....was seven miles away. My dear late mother would drive me there, she loved books and I would sit there and read books. Loved the magic I found in them. Even though I was not a good student, I hoped that if I could write a book, I might find the magic that I found in reading them. I truly never thought I was smart enough, certainly not qualified, to write a book. But it’s something I worked at very hard. In my spare time. I’d get up early, stay up late.

Did you write as a teen?
Privately, yes. I kept journals and I would practice. In hindsight I was practicing description, reading writers I admired, analyzing why certain rhythms worked for me and others didn’t. Certain writers captured me, other writers did not. But I did not write for the school newspaper or yearbook or that sort of thing.

Do you think that was because of your confidence level and what you felt you could do and that’s why you kept your writing private?
Maybe. There was not a ready venue for writing. Well that’s not true, there was a literary magazine, a newspaper. I went from a little school my sophomore year to a gigantic industrial high school. In the farm school there were 27 kids in my class. In the entire school, from kindergarten to 12th grade, there were fewer than 200. I went from that to a very large high school where in my class alone, there were more than 600 people. It was the size of a college.

A huge adjustment for you.
Big change.

Is that the school you were 'all state' springboard diver?
Yes, I played baseball too.

Great segue, I know that you are very athletic.
I was.

You still are, windsurfing recently! Still play for the Roy Hobbs League?

No, I haven’t played in years. I played in the world series, two games, 6 years ago. I badly broke my hand and some other things. I miss the guys. We have such fun.

Tell me about your tryouts with the Reds.
I had two tryouts, right out of high school. Two legitimate tryouts. I was invited to a camp by the Bay City Angels, a Los Angeles Angels organization. I was invited to a tryout with Cincinnati Reds that was in Cincinnati. I had a really good game there. I hit a double that for anybody else would have been an in park home run. (laughter). I threw a guy out at second and I did not have a great arm. The guy doing the tryout, the third base coach for the Reds, was very kind and smart. He took me aside and told me there are 5 major league tools and a player has to have at least one of those tools. A major league arm, a major league bat speed, etc. He said, "You don’t have any of those tools." And he was right, I didn’t have a major league arm, I didn’t have any of those gifts. He said you have really good hands, better than some of the guys who play for our organization. It was actually I think, an act of respect, but I still played.

You were this farm boy, you transfer to this huge school, I can’t imagine what the cut must have been like for that team.
Yeah, that was a tough team to make, it really was a tough.

Where did that love of the game come from?
Baseball? The farm school. My freshman year our team placed second in the state. That was before single, double A, triple A. Second in the state, against all those huge schools. I remember walking on the field, in the grass. I get goose bumps. There was just something orderly and historic about baseball. Although I did not follow a team, I loved that symmetry of baseball. The fact is, and it is a fact, even if you’re not a gifted athlete, and I’m not and I wasn’t, you can still, through persistence and practice, participate. Love is above your own gifts. I like that. I like being in the dugout. Baseball players are funny and you can let loose. I played three positions. I caught, pitched and I played two games in all those years at first base.

You were recently inducted into their hall of fame, correct?
That’s right behind you. The Iowa High School Baseball Association just gave me that award in February. But not because I was a good player. It was because I’ve done other things. It’s one of those awards they give to people in appreciation. Wendy and I flew up there in the Hooter’s jet. (laughter)

What is it about baseball that so captures you? What is that thing that made you bring the equipment to Cuba and make sure they had baseball?



It is more alchemy than chemistry. Something about lights at night on a baseball field. A defining and crystalizing of personalities in the field. It’s team, but it’s also very individual. As catcher working with pitchers, I just loved it. Pitchers liked pitching to me. In Iowa, they moved me to varsity for one reason. The best pitcher liked throwing to me.

Where did the Doc story about catching Castro develop?
Castro was never a ball player, that was the fantasy. He was brilliant in his way. He selected baseball as the vehicle to spread to the masses that he could have been a major league player. That he’d been scouted and he’d turned down a contract. All of which was a lie. He chose the perfect metaphor. Not basketball, football or soccer. That fiction was actually endorsed by a scout who scouted for the Dodgers. The guy, like many ball players, was undependable of facts. He said, ‘Oh yeah, I scouted him when he was with Sugar Kings and told how he signed him. But these are bar stories. He was probably talking about Juan Castro who was short stop or something. If you read that portion of the book, (North of Havana) Doc actually comes to the mound and says to Castro, "You’re terrible......I'll make you look like the rag arm you are." When we made the documentary, we found all these films in the Kennedy Library of Fidel Castro swinging a bat. Others of him throwing. I can watch a man throw a ball once and I can tell you if he can play or not.

In getting to the essence of who you are, I read that on a farm where you worked, the owners spoke about Sanibel Island.
They did..

....and you came here.
They were the best people I ever met.

Was is what they were sharing with you about Sanibel Island alone that got you here, or a combination of that and your visit here? You’ve been here since 1972. What about here enamored you? What ‘hooked’ you to here?
Those two people, a man named Burt Meyers and Judge Mildred Meyers. They had an elevated sense of obligation in terms of social matters. Or their own land. I worked for them. They were incredible. Mildred Meyers had read the law in a time when you didn’t have to go to law school or even college. If you read for the law, you passed the bar, you were an attorney. She not only passed the bar, she became president of the Ohio Bar Association. Just decent people. After high school I traveled for, gosh, 5 years. Just traveled around. The time in my life had come for me to settle down. Or at least try. And so, during the course of those 5 years I was installing phones in various places. I called newspapers all over from a telephone pole in town.

From a telephone pole?
Yeah, cause I’d call for free. (Everyone burst out laughing) Clip into a line and I’d talk for free. I called Hamlet, a newspaper in Rockingham. Wilmington, North Carolina. Called them and said "I’d like to get a job as a reporter." Well where’d you go to college? Didn’t go to college. I called the Fort Myers News-Press. To the receptionist at the time, I said, "I’d like to get a job as a reporter." She said, "Where’d you go to college?" I said, ‘Didn’t go to college.’ She said, "I don’t think a newspaper’s going to hire you, but Gannett just bought us, we might. (more laughing)

Well if you know Gannett, you understand..
That’s actually true and we laughed about that until she passed.

And they hired you.
Came down and they hired me. Not as a top editor, but on my own, I brought my feature stories. But the editor, Bob Bentley who I still stay in touch with, smart guy, very positive. During the interview he said, "So your reporting experience?" I said, " I really don’t have any?" "Do you think you can layout pages?" "I’ve never done that." "As a copy editor how do you think you’d do?" "I’m a bad speller." So he says, "You seem like a nice guy. You’re hired."

You said that you ‘got an education’ there. What do you mean by that?
Journalism is a proactive education if you are willing to make it so. People at the News-Press were positive, elevating and if I had an idea they’d said, "Go write about it." They didn’t pay me more, but I didn’t care. It gave me opportunity to practice and learn my craft. This area is powerful in that it attracts powerful, interesting, eclectic people. The people as a journalist I have the opportunity to meet, for me, are potential treasures.

We are experiencing that right here today.
I remember when after I was hired at the News-Press, driving to Captiva, Southeast Plantation, sitting down and the people at the next table were from Great Britain. I thought golly those people are from England. (Laughter)

How old were you?
23. The people who were here at that time and now were James Newton, Henry Ford, Charles Limburgh. They came to Sanibel every year. James Jones, who wrote from "Here to Eternity" wrote much of it on Ft. Myers Beach. Peter Matthiesen who’s still probably my closest male confidante, met him, because I lived here. It’s a wondrous place. Mackinlay Kantor won the Pulitzer Prize for ANDERSONVILLE, dear guy, met him. Very elevating to see that these icons are real people.

First piece you received monetary compensation for?
It was for the News-Press, a rewrite I’m sure. First piece I sold to a magazine was while I was at the News-Press, I sent a story to Outdoor Life about Hog Hunting. Hunting feral hogs. I wish I had it.

How did you possibly come up with an experience hunting feral hogs?
I went out with this veterinarian who hunted feral hogs.

Here in Florida?
Oh geez, it goes on right now. They have hog dogs. It’s an enclave of people who love to hunt hogs. (Smiles broadly and we laugh) The dogs catch ‘em, the guys tie, geld ‘em if they’re males, disinfect them and turn them loose.

Your hog-hunting experience here in Florida, did you use that when you chased the hog into the sanctuary of the church, in Nicaragua? (More laughter) Why were you chasing that hog?
(Big smile) It had gotten loose. Dunko wanted it. It ran right through church while there was a wedding going on.

How did you come to being talking to these guys? (the feral hog guys) Were you doing a story on them?
I went out with them, I wanted to publish in a national magazine, thought, 'golly this could work.' I didn’t contact Outdoor Life, I just wrote it and sent it to them. It appeared in their regional segment, which was a disappointment, but still. I got paid four hundred bucks or some such.

But you’re published.
That’s the magazine.

Is that the same time you went hunting for the skunk ape and the one armed man?
Summertime, Peter Matthiessen and I did that

What prompted that?
I just like doing stuff.

You obviously brought that into the book, when Doc and Tomlinson go do that.
That’s right. At that time there were a lot of sightings of the so-called skunk ape. People were seeing them everywhere. Somebody in Cape Coral, there was a big hand print on a house and I thought well I’ll have an expedition (laughter) and invited people. Absolutely, coincidentally I’d gone to a book store at the mall. I saw this beautiful book, turquoise cover and bought it. Didn’t know about the author, Peter Matthiessen. It’s called ‘Far Tortuga.’ Incredible. Finished the book.

Shortly thereafter while planning this expedition the phone rings and it’s Peter Matthiessen and he says "I’m Peter Matthiessen and I understand you are going in search of the swamp ape." "Yeah." He says, "I’m very interested in the Sasquatch, the abominable snowman" I said, "Is this Peter Matthiessen the writer?" He said, 'yes.' I said, "You don’t want anything to do with this, it is complete bullshit." (Much laughter here) But he came anyway. The first General into Normandy was General Pistan Tempelwhite, I invited him, his son was a Colonel in Special Forces, he came with a group of Special Ops guys.

How do you make these connections? Is it just a phone call?
I know a lot of people. So they came, I assigned everyone who came a rank. I had grays I had gotten from the Army Navy Store. Everyone was assigned a rank. The real Special Ops guys were security. So we went down to the Everglades for 10 days.

What a blast!
It was a blast. Pete and I had the best time and have been the closest friends ever since.

Tell us how you went from being a journalist to a fishing guide.
Journalism was great education and the people were terrific, but I knew I didn’t want to be a news people person. It was not my calling. I got my captain’s license in 1974. At that time it was very hard to get, now it’s really easy. Started guiding part time then full time at Tarpon Bay on Sanibel and did that for almost 13 years. Spare time I worked hard at being a writer. I heard that there was a boat for sale, guy was retiring, and I went down to see Mack, the owner of the Marina and told him I just wanted to do light charters, you know, take people around to see the sights, no real fishing. So he says, "Yea alright, we can do that." Next morning he calls me in and says "You got two for a snook charter, take em out." I didn't know the first thing about fishing and he knew it. That was Mack. Great sense of humor.

You went dog-sledding in Alaska.
The thing I remember most from that is they have this ritual, kinda like the Polar Bear Club thing, but in this case, everyone dresses in bizarre costumes and then jumps into this shockingly freezing cold water. And they announce you. Like, "Ok this is Bill, and he's dressed like a duck. And then Bill jumps in. "Next up is John and he's dressed like a cowboy." And he jumps in. Well, I'm from Florida. And I have no costume. And I have on shorts and a tee-shirt. So they get to me and the guy says, "and this is Randy..... and he's um.... not wearing a costume." So I jump in. And unknown to everyone there, sometimes there is a reaction that happens if you are shocked like that and it happened to me. My body instantly went numb and did not respond. Couldn't move my limbs.

So they're all watching and I'm thinking, "Ok this is it, I'm gone. Can't move my arms or legs." They are all laughing and I'm drowning. So I finally make my way over to dock to get out, I struggle to pull myself out of the water and I've lost my shorts. Then horrified, it hits me. Not that I have no shorts. It's "I have no shorts and there are about 2000 people watching and 1800 of them have a video camera." (much laughter!)

At this point Randy notices my photographer Regina just lurking around us snapping away with her camera.
What does Regina do when she’s not taking photographs?

She works for the March of Dimes.
 
We then took a photograph in front of the Persian doors seen in the picture below so Regina could leave, and we then continued with our discussion. As we posed for the picture, Regina mentioned that her son played Little League. Without hesitation, Randy went and got a brand new ball, signed it,
writing "Be Relentless" and gave it to her for her son, Sam.
 
How appropriate that we take a photograph in front of your Persian doors, because it's something that I'd like to talk about in a bit. Let's get back to it. Like you , I love to read. My mom had a library. I've read every classic. Steinbeck, Twain, all the great writers we've talked about. When I discovered your writing, there was something about what you do. Especially when you write about you and relate these stories.

For instance, reading the story of Paloma in Mexico from your cookbook, which, by the way is far more than just a cookbook. You are really talking from the heart and I was pretty much near tears when you were writing about how, when you took her for the plane ride, she said, " I always wanted to know what it would be like to fly away."

I wanted to be a marine biologist when I grew up so there’s this connection I get from who I believe you are. You have combined two loves I have; mystery writing with the ocean and biology.

Someone interjected, "That’s 3."
Randy smiles: To a biologist, it’s two.

I’m really fascinated about your head, what’s in it.
Me too. Everybody laughs and he says, "Let’s find out."

My point of entry is going to be the doors. We looked at the collection of photographs that you have of these beautiful doors.
They’re stunning, yes.

Is it the simple beauty of them that intrigues you, or is it more a Tomlinson experience, in that the doors represent an exit from one space to the next, or an entrance into the things unknown?
That’s really interesting, geez, I don’t know. Maybe that, certainly. That’s the way Spanish houses are built. You see a large plain wall with these gorgeous doors and you step through and it’s wonderland. It’s a garden.

An oasis on the other side.
In Cartagena, the doors, the history, they date back to the Conquistadors. Unusual and brilliantly done, but simply done, hand carved. To just put them side by side and look at them.....I like that very much. I’ve been trying to talk my wife into going to Cartagena and most people are afraid to go there. I was trying to impress her. It’s a fun thing to do, walk down Cartagena street at night and take photographs of the doors because they are everywhere.

They each have a personality of their own, which personifies the people who lived there, if they are original with the property.
That's true.

So the answer, it's the simple beauty of it, not a little deeper?
Possibly, I don’t know,. Why do we do things? Why are we drawn to things? The history, who did this? Someone cared deeply about these artifacts. I think and also the visual. If you go to Loews and buy a door, it’s a whole different thought process.

I'd like to talk to you about Cuba.
I like Cuba a lot. The people are dear and the politics are unfortunate. In 1980, I came back with 147 refugees on a 55 foot boat.

How did you get involved with that?
Cuban-American friend of mine called me in May of that year, 1980, and said my grandmother and my aunt, we want to get them out of Cuba. Randy then told a sample story he had a daughter and a son. January, 1959 he and your his son fly to Miami. His wife was supposed to come the next day. The airports were shut down, his family was separated for 20 years." He asked, "Can you get a boat?" I said: "I can." I borrowed a 55 foot grouper boat. We went to Key West, picked up my friend and dragged along 3 of my roustabout baseball buddies. Had no chart. We just went south. We saw Havana, turned right and got to Mariel Harbor. We were there for 10 or 12 days. There were two gun boats at the mouth of Mariel Harbor and then two small gun boats boarded you, searched you, told you what to do, what not to do and you went in and anchored. But then you couldn’t get out.

How did you get out?
They called us over to Pier 2, where they processed the refugees, loaded us up with 147 people that we didn’t want and sent us on our way.

Have you kept track of any of those people?
I so wish I had. We got to Key West, the Marines sent them one way, we went the other way.

What a great thing for you to do.
It was. (said very humbly)

Did you get your friend’s family?
No, but they came 2 days later, accidently. The government did not want them to come. But anyway they got here.

At this point Randy asked, "Louis you want a beer? That one’s got to be getting warm and I’m going to get a drink because it’s cocktail time. We took a break, watched the sun setting over Pine Island Sound and relaxed.

The Writing


We are going to get a little deep here but I just want to understand where you are coming from. You're books really make me think.
I’m so glad.

It seems to me that the long running and evolving conversation between Doc, the pragmatic scientist and Tomlinson, the spiritualist, is a way for you to delve into both sides of who you are, and by writing about those conversations you are really putting into print the exploration that you are having within yourself. Would that be an accurate statement?
That's a great observation. Pretty insightful. I think it is, yeah. I think that we are all, well I can only speak for myself, are made up of two basic spiritual components. Basic cerebral components, one of which is linear and pragmatic, the other is, for me, the wistful spirit, intuitive. Because I don’t believe. I’d love to but I don’t. So when I start the books, Ford’s really linear, Tomlinson is purely spiritual and intuitive. I knew early on that they were involved in a kind of death dance. It’s only alluded to in the books but I knew what was going on as a sub-text, cause I think those two components are at war in all of us. Which wins, the spiritual or pragmatic? But yeah, I can say anything I want to say and get away with it. It was a good thing to do. Very insightful of me.

I'm glad to hear that because I disagreed right away, as I started reading your books, with people who take it right from the surface. They ask "Is Doc Ford really you?" I immediately sensed these two people, Doc and Tomlinson, make up the essence of who Randy Wayne White is. I have had a lot of discussions about those two characters. You prompted, actually you promulgate me to have debates, About what's going on, what the dynamic is.
You are actually debating yourself and that’s what I wanted from the characters. Doc Ford is never described physically. I wanted the readers to build their own characters. But that is an interesting observation, and you're arguing was your own duality.

I’m sure you get a lot of input from your readers and fans. I hope that you get it on such a level that lets you know that you are causing people like us to think. To really ponder what is important. Loyalty. Our impact, however minute we think it might be, on the people next to us, those we meet down the street. Or, as you put it, "What we do to the water here and how it is affected, then moves out of Pine Island Sound to other parts of the world. There's this person half way around the world who may swimming in water that we have fished here months or even years ago."
The circles span.

I hope you realize that you are impacting people on that level.
The books, the characters, they are real, actually to me as well. But it's the readers who bring those qualities to the books. Books don’t bring those qualities to the readers. That is the kindred thread that links writers and readers. It’s a direct brain conduit, directly from one person’s brain, through his or her hands, paper to paper, through his or her eyes to the brain. It’s without friction, like quantum physics. There’s no friction. It’s pure.

It’s a catalyst for introspection, when you have another person who is thinking the same type of the thing. Both people, becoming introspective, each then thinking about that same dynamic.
The brains are talking, yes. The brains are communicating. Words are simply tools to a degree. But only to a degree. There are no wrenches that fit bolts that are out of spec, and our thoughts are often out of spec.

You spoke about and are quoted as saying, "MacDonald pushed the genre’s (mystery writing) envelope using McGee and other characters to explore the dark, quirky and sometimes hilarious corners of the human condition." You said, "He used digression to jump on a soap box and speak his own mind" and you talked about his "expanding the genre and all writers everywhere should be grateful to the man."

It reminds me of one of my favorite quotes from George Bernard Shaw "The reasonable man adapts himself to the world. The unreasonable man persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. It is therefore, in the unreasonable man that all progress lies."
That’s good.

That said, do you think that with your combination of biology and philosophy with the mystery/thriller, you have continued the legacy of what MacDonald did and in fact have pushed that envelope even further?
The envelope is not mine. It dates way back to Conan Doyle and Poe, Mark Twain. Hemingway said, and I’m paraphrasing, "Mark Twain invented the Modern Novel. It’s sidekicks, the realistic dialogue, the brilliance of dialogue. It’s really not dialogue, it gives the impression of being comfortable dialogue, but it’s not comfortable what-so-ever. It’s impressionistic, believable, similar. So the envelope was there, it is not mine.

But you took up that envelope. You do get up on a soap box.
Too much sometimes.

I don’t agree with that. I think it's your right, you’re freedom as a writer, being able to voice your opinions. But you do it in a way that I think has pushed it even further than MacDonald.
I hope so, thank you very much. The books are written on three levels. First level is a fast entertaining story with interesting characters. Second level there is an environmental theme or sub-text. Third level is spiritual. Are questions posed, seldom resolved or answered? In the back stories there are little hints, allusions to things that have happened. In fact, some of which did happen. I do it for me. I like the fabric of that reality.

For me as a writer, when I am writing and article that I know people are going to read .....
You hope so....

Absolutely. It’s always in my mind, it’s got to be in your mind too, doesn’t it? The audience that you are speaking to.
Yes. Readers are more important than I am. It’s the way I see it. The reader is more important. If I don’t communicate, I’m a tree in the woods that falls and no one’s around. No, I write for the reader, but I also write for myself.

You really found a way, that the weaving (the fabric) of those three levels produces a product that satisfies you personally?
I hope so, but the obligation of a writer is to communicate. That is foremost.

You don’t just communicate, you also educate.
I wish I could remember the things I write. Yes, but the obligation of writers is to communicate. I don’t buy for a moment the premise of people who say, "I write for myself. I really don’t care." Well, then, why write? Why, if you are not trying to communicate. Much of technology today has to do with eliminating the loneliness, the isolation of the individual. That’s why we write. If one writes effectively, one finds readers. There’s an obligation to those readers to do it well.

You’ve been described as the "George Plimpton of our day who decided to write mysteries."
Who said that, it’s interesting?

I'll make sure to get you that info. In fact, quite a few things that Doc or Doc and Tomlinson get into are from your real life experiences. What fuels the need for: A) adventure and, B) learning more and new things?
I don’t want to miss anything. We’re going to miss a lot when we die. It’s much easier to say no than it is to say yes.

Yes is a very hard thing to do.
When I speak of going on trips to people, they say "Geez, I wanna go, I really wanna go." I'll go, "I’ll call you." Well, I can’t, I got this.. I've got that" It’s difficult to say yes. Saying yes requires energy, requires input, constructing something, building something. To denigrate, to say no, to deny is easy.

Do you think it also requires some sort of sacrifice and we’ve become such a self centered society; Let’s take the easy way out.?
It’s just human nature, to follow the path of least resistance. But yeah, I don’t want to miss anything.

What was your reaction when you were nominated to be a Fellow in the Explorers Club?
(HUGE SMILE). Oh gosh, I was so excited. Read about it since a kid, The Explorers Club, and pictured this musty, antique memento and artifact filled building. And that's just what it is. But to be nominated as a fellow? It was geez, maybe they’ll make me a member. So Wendy and I went to New York, I had a driver, and man I had him take me straight, didn’t go to the apartment, went straight there. Told Wendy I’ll call you. It was terrific.

Southwest Florida

I’m going to shift to your other love which is Southwest Florida.
That’s true.

You said, "It’s sad but not surprising. Florida is a transient state in which too many rootless people care nothing for the past of this state nor its future. It’s a vacation destination, or a retirement place, as temporary as time spent in a bus station. Like a bus station, it attracts con men and predators. It always has. It always will." Do you still feel that way?
I do. I like that sentence a lot. I do feel that way. But there are also these wonderful people.
I found my home. These Indian mounds. I’m not a spiritual person, but I do have a wistful personality. I love the idea that, well, it’s not an idea, it’s a fact. At this precise spacial intersection here, people have been telling stories for 2000 years and that’s a fact.


And here you are telling stories.
Here WE are!

Your love of Southwest Florida is a fait accompli. What is it about this area that has gotten ‘under your skin’ and made you become so invested here, especially with your time? You were on the Judicial Nominating Committee, South Florida Big Brothers, Grievance Committee for Florida Bar Association.
I had subpoena powers which is frightening. (We all laugh). I think it’s, Mariel Harbor, bringing back those refugees, the 140 something. When they saw Key West they took up this chant, "Libertat" Liberty and they’d all been sick and they’d given up everything. Experience something like that and you realize what a treasure we have in this republic. Also an obligation to serve, to give back, it is important. The guys on the farm, it was to serve to give back. It’s an obligation, so I try to do that. Big Brothers was a fortunate thing. I came up with the idea, three local bankers we founded the organization. The cliché is people come to Florida, they love it, they buy a place and they don’t want anyone else to come. Lament the good old days when fishing was better, which is BS. When traffic was less, which is not BS. I’ve traveled enough to know that the first casualty of a failed economy is the environment. So a strong economy is very important, it’s an attractive place.

You said before "It’s the greatest place in the world."
It is, I’m fortunate I can live anywhere I want in the world. It’s the reflective, valuable people. With this house. The people that have been in this house. You don’t have to go anywhere and everybody comes here, ultimately. It’s like, were I a trapper, this is where I’d stay. Paths cross here.
 
***

Prologue
Just as these words had left Randy's lips, as if on cue, the wife of the late Olympic Great Al Oerter, Cathy, showed up with her daughter to just hang out with he and Wendy. It is easy to understand what it is about this place that makes it such a great confluence for the vast variety of people, spirits and experiences that pass through this home. Randy will tell you it's the history of the place..... or the setting. He'll explain that it's the feeling one gets when sitting on the porch, looking out at the setting sun over Pine Island Sound.


Randy would say it's the mounds, the connection to the past. But I'll tell you, as soon as you step onto the property, it envelopes you like a warm blanket. You feel safe, alive, connected. As one who has been fortunate enough to feel this aura, so thick that you can almost swat it away with your hand, I can tell you, the reason we all come.............is Randy Wayne White.

Till next time,

Lou

Photographs by Regina Toops and Courtesy of RWW

Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Jacques Pépin & Carmella Catena, one you know, one I wish you could have...

L'Ecole w/ Jacques Pepin
Great and iconic people inspire us. Some are famous some are not. Yet, the impact they leave on our lives is indelible and forever. Such is the case with Chef Jacques Pépin. You see, me and many of the chefs you now know as household names, all have our culinary careers due to the inspiration received from chefs like Julia Child, Alaine Ducasse, Paul Bocuse and of course, current king and culinary emperor, Chef Jacques Pépin.

I had a quiet lunch with him at L'Ecole recently but before we sat down, we toured the ICC in New York City, where Pépin is a dean. I watched with amusement as we walked the halls, stopping in various classes being taught. This was a rare treat for me, a lay person in this world of mis en place and strict French culinary tradition, to watch the students, instructors and fellow deans react to just his presence in the room. He stopped to check the bread, seeming the most content I'd remember seeing him as he took a loaf, turned it over and tapped it, listening to the sound to check its doneness. Then, we popped in on a cake decorating class, wishing some well, catching up with others. This was his element.

Each time we would enter a classroom, the students, and yes even the chef/instructors, would light up as the Master Chef entered, explaining to him in this brief moment in time, how they had seen this or that he had done, or that the reason they were attending was because of the inspiration they received as their mom, or dad, or in my case, my Grandma, introduced them to the culinary world through him and his endeavors. A moment, they explained, that was shared with one of his 'many' moments, where the two worlds collided and theirs was changed forever. The awakening in them of this culinary dream, the setting of their course or impact it had their future, leading them to this adventure.

Such is the case with me. In meeting Chef Pépin, I realized that my current path had been set long ago by he and someone very dear and personal in my life. My grandmother, Carmella Catena. After a recent meeting and subsequent lunch with this legendary chef, I recently realized why I am now doing what I'm doing. Seems I grew up a foodie. My childhood years were centered around the table, a meal. The kitchen. Now, I had no idea I was a foodie until the word actually hit the lexicon of our everyday lives, but when it did, it described me perfectly.

As a child, my mom worked and I came home from school each day to my grandmother. We had a very special relationship. She was faithfully there each day, from the time I was six, until I was 14-15. Each day when I walked through that door it was her face I saw. Some of the most formative years of my life. It is only now I understand that when my grandmother watched me after school every day, I had actually been her sous chef. "Okay now add the egg, Louis, slowly," as she mixed the dough when we were making her 'knots.'

She was famous for those cookies....Grandma's Knots... I remember, I always begged her to let me lick the bowl of homemade icing after she would dip all the cookies. She always seemed to have just enough to satisfy my sweet tooth. Such a simple recipe too. Food coloring, confectioners sugars, orange juice and love. You can't forget the love or it just doesn't taste the same.

Each week, my family had a traditional meal together one night a week. Thursday. Macaroni night. My mom, my grams and my Aunt would take turns hosting the meal at there respective houses. Two weeks, then it would move to the next house. When it was at gram's or my mom's, gram would do the cooking of the sauce, or gravy as it's referred to in my house. In my family there was gravy. Three kinds: Marinara and Meat for the reds, and Brown. When we said 'gravy' most times we were referring to what you all call spaghetti sauce. That's just the way it was. It was here also that I was sous chef before I knew what a sous chef was.

She would add the ingredients to the bowl for meatballs, and tell me, "Get in there and mix it with your hands, they are the best tool in the kitchen" or, "Turn the meatballs gently," followed by, "and stop eating them before we get them into the gravy!" She would always laughingly scold me as we would sear the meatballs to par cook them before dropping them into the sauce. Now, folks, I love fried meatballs! She would let me turn them in the pan and I would sneak eat all the little ones and she would scold me, but not really mad. I later found out as an adult that she would make extra, counting on the fact that I was going to eat some while we were cooking. I also,  as an adult, realized I was taught the difference between searing and sauteing, how to braise, to make stock, to bake. I just didn't realize what was happening then. But she did and she had so much love. She taught me love was as important ingredient as than anything else you were putting into your dish. Maybe more so.

She was a quiet, affable woman, who was quick with a smile and never seemed to have a bad word to say about anyone. Just a gentle soul whom everyone loved. She was a hard working mother of 4 who worked most of her life in a sewing factory, with long hours and sacrifice. I also remember she had a helluva right arm. No, not throwing. Whacking me on the arm with a wooden spoon. I was, let's say.....feisty. At seven, I backed the car into the side of the house while moving it so I could play basketball with my friends. It's safe to say, she had her hands full and I deserved every whack I got. She broke a lot of wooden spoons on me.

Now that said, we spent a lot of time together and had an excellent and special relationship. I remember, as if yesterday, sitting in the living room after school each day, watching Jacques and Julia and the The Galloping Gourmet with Graham Kerr with her. Well, at least on the days I did not have baseball, or football practice. I was 7-8 yrs old. When I think about it now, it was my grandmother who truly turned me into a foodie. She was the one who introduced me to all those cooking shows.

I grew and as a young adult, I was into music, sales, finances, travel. I liked eating, but one would not have called me a gourmet by any stretch. When life's curves and unexpected twists sidelined my previous career choice, a great friend, Elaine, awoke in me the 'foodie' gene and I seemed to fall into this culinary lifestyle as if putting on an old comfortable sweater. I never gave it much thought, but after years of watching my mom and grandmother in the kitchen, I guess the culinary world and a love for the kitchen is ingrained in me.

I recently chatted with Chef Pépin at an event in Cleveland and during that conversation, it hit me. The reason the foodie sweater fit so well is because it had been crocheted by my grandmother years ago. We made plans to have lunch that day at the famed French Culinary Institute (now called The International Culinary Center). I was thrilled. You know folks, there is a reason he is now, as he put it, 'a rock star.' It is through him and, the influences and inspiration of Julia, Kerr and those early acclaimed chefs, that many of the chefs and food personalities you now know today, pursued their culinary careers.

He smiled at me and explained, "Years ago we were just cooks, trying to simply make good food, but today, I have to laugh. With the popularity of the foodnetwork, with all the great chefs, like Bobby and Mario and Michael, I am now 'touring.'" He smiled, "Back when I started the show, we didn't even know if anyone was watching," he continued, "now, with the food shows, we chefs are all the rage. I travel all over sometimes alone, sometimes with Claudine and I am having fun. And I have been put in the archives in Boston University, it's nice if a bit strange."

He had mentioned this twice now in our conversations, pointing out that many people were not aware that he has taught at Boston University for almost 31 years. I asked him what he meant by 'if a bit strange' and he expounded, "I was alone in my house, you know and they had asked me to put together these things, mementos, writings, tapes, things to go into a box to bring to the school and it was weird, I, thought, 'You know, I'm not dead yet,' and he laughed, adding, 'who knows I may need these things. To put your life in a box..."

The Jacques Pépin Collection spans an entire career in kitchens around the world, from his earliest Certificats d'Emploi as an apprentice in post World War II France, to teaching career at Boston University. The collection includes extensive manuscript drafts of Pépin articles, essays and books, including The Apprentice, and The Art of Cooking. Correspondence and photographs, both personal and professional, are plentiful and feature the likes of Julia Child, Craig Claiborne, Laura Bush, The collection also includes vast holdings of Pépin's recipe books, printed materials featuring Pépin, interviews, datebooks, menus and artwork by Pépin, awards, and memorabilia.

Also included is a large number of personal and professional videos featuring Jacques Pépin's Kitchen: Cooking with Claudine, Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home, Today's Gourmet with Jacques Pépin, and Jacques Pépin: More Fast Food My Way. He winked at me, "But of course, it is a great honour, I am in with such people as Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., Alistair Cooke, Dan Rather, many others and me, just a cook."

I found during my recent conversations with him, in Cleveland and New York, he is always humble, a bit self deprecating and even a bit mischievous in his thoughts and remarks about himself. For instance, when talking with me about he and his fellow deans at the ICC, famed in their own right, Chefs Alain Sailhac and André Soltner, he referred to himself and the two of them as "the dinosaurs, and 'the three stooges of culinary." Quite a description of three master chefs who are among the greatest French chefs alive on the planet today, with a combined total of two hundred years culinary expertise.

We talked about his thoughts on cookery today and the sudden explosion in the popularity of cooking shows. He explained "Well on one hand, it has really made the chefs the star with all the shows and competitions. Back then, when we started out, Julia and I, it was about just showing people how too cook. I'll tell you a secret not many people know," he smiled, "we had no script or recipes...we would just wing it! Sometimes those were the best shows. At the same time, the public's awareness of culinary and the influx of new students and chefs is a good thing, so overall I believe we are headed in the right direction."

I asked if he thought about slowing down, and he answered immediately, "Well, who knows how long this will last, you know. I love the live shows, the interaction. It is nice to know that there were people out there buying the books and watching the shows," he winked, "and it's an honour to greet them one on one." I have seen that effect; folks looking up on stage with a big grin, re-living some memory or moment when Chef Jacques made them cook better, or feel better, or hungry. I was there myself when asked to lunch with him.

For me folks, this was true foodie dream come true. As a child watching Chef Pépin with my Grams, and through all the years of watching his shows as an adult, following his career, to now, being 'in' the food entertainment business, the thought that one day I would be sitting with him sharing an intimate one on one lunch was childish fantasy, a dream to not even dare dream. But here I was. We talked pure food, sharing thoughts on life, his wife and daughter, life as a chef, teaching, Julia, my life, etc.. When this moment finally came, I chose to be in it, as opposed to attend it for the sake of publication. And, I was rewarded with a great moment in my life, bringing together the real reasons I do what I do; the pure passion for the food, and most importantly, the simple acts of cooking together and sharing a meal that can help create the human bonds that shape us. Food in the right hands and with the right motive and presentation can be a unifier. For me, I now know that not only my Grams, but through her, Chef Pépin, were very influential in the career path I have finally chosen, the passion I have for all things culinary and the person that I have become, both personally and professionally.

I thought about giving you an elaborate piece here, possible video, long interview, but then as the afternoon wore on and Jacques and I talked about things it dawned on me that while I should share the moment and it's impact on me with you, this one I would keep close to the vest. A little treasure that I could take out once in a while and feel all those good feelings and re-live all those great memories of cooking in the kitchen with Carmella. The love, the laughs, yes even the scolds and broken wooden spoons.

Thanks Grams, I miss you. And thanks Chef, for taking the time to remind me what's important. Told ya, iconic people will do that. They will make you lift your game, make you think and hopefully impact your life for the better. I really am a pretty lucky guy.

Bon Appetit

Lou

Monday, February 04, 2013

These two sweet treats will have your Valentine eating out of the palm of your hand....hmmm....this could get interesting!


I thought I'd post a special treat for Valentines day and because this, February, is the month of amore. The challenge for these GGM chefs, Pastry Chef Paw Mikkelsen and Chocolatier Ingo Wullert was to use an imported blood orange juice imported from Sicily. Well, the phrase great minds think alike has never been more true. Paw and Ingo have brought two wonderful variations of a blood orange mousse that will have your lover literally eating out of the palm of your hand. Hmmm.....this could get interesting. And, the great thing about them is that while they may look intimidating, that's just due the presentation. With a just a little time, patience and practice, you too can get fancy in the kitchen. The recipes are easy to follow and the home cook will have no problem.

What could be more romantic? The one you love, luxurious sweets, succulent fresh berries, combined with a glass of champagne........soft lights........ ahhh love!

From Chef Paw Mikkelsen:

Blood Orange Mousse

Ingredients
7 sheets gelatin
1 quart heavy cream
2 1/2 cups puree or juice of blood orange
2 oz lemon juice
2 cups egg whites
1 lb 2 oz sugar

Method
Dissolve gelatin in cold water. Remove gelatin sheets and squeeze squeeze out excess water. Melt the gelatin down in the blood orange juice over a double boiler and add the lemon juice.
Whip the egg whites with half of the sugar. Add the rest of the sugar before whites become a meringue. Whip to a soft peak. Add juice and gelatin in to the meringue. Fold this entire mix in to the cream.

Put in heart shaped molds or in a pan. (If using a pan, cut shapes out after freezing). Freeze and unmold mousse. Serve with anglais sauce or a fruit sauce.

From Master Chocolatier Ingo Wullaert

Dark Chocolate Blood Orange Mousse

Ingredients
16 oz heavy whipping cream
12 oz dark chocolate (drops)
5 oz whole milk
2 oz blood orange juice
1 oz orange liqueur
½ oz lime juice

Method
Combine in microwave safe bowl, milk and chocolate drops. Heat in the microwave for about 2-3 minutes. Take out and stir the mixture until smooth. Add the blood orange, liqueur and lime juice. Stir until blended.
Whip the heavy cream into soft peaks. Fold the heavy cream into the chocolate mixture. Pour in heart shaped cups, if available.
Refrigerate mousse to firm texture. Decorate with cocoa powder, chocolate or fruit.

I hope you have a wonderful Valentines day and please let me know if you makethese as I would love to know how they came out.

As always, Bon Appetit,

Lou