Rosé Wines~A Great Choice For Summer...

Growing up, my exposure to Rosé wine was the nondescript jug my mom and dad kept in the closet, right next to jug of Burgundy and the jug of Chablis. As far as I knew, this was wine; bold red, dry white and fruffy pink. Now having matured into an adult (there are some who will question that assessment when describing me) who loves wine and now sometimes writes about it here, I have become much more well versed in wine, its varieties, its regions and its industry. It seems I had forgotten about Rosé completely, specifically when the too sweet Zins and Grenaches became all the rage. I had relegated pink wine to lesser status in my now snobbishly educated wine palate. "Tut tut, Rosé you say? Ha ha ha, real wine is not pink, I'll have you know." Not very enlightened.

In the wine world, things are changing and true Rosés are again becoming popular, especially with a younger generation now exploring wine in all its forms and glory. In these recession economies, smaller wine producers were looking for a way to maximize immediate cash flow to offset the anticipated but lengthy wait for return on investment from wines aging in the barrel and bottle. Rosés seemed like the right answer to their problem. Since Rosé is best when enjoyed young and takes relatively no time at all to go from grape to bottle, it was a stop gap measure to ensure a winery's bottom line stayed in the black. While hoping for a good response from the market, what took the industry by pleasant surprise was a consumer that embraced the light, crisp and refreshing medium wine, especially in summer and in the hotter climates.

Now let me qualify, I am mostly speaking of the American market. In Europe, the scene is very different. When summertime descends upon Europe, Rosé wine is very much the wine of choice and unlike the changing American concept of pink wines (sweet and cloying), true Rosé has never fallen out of favor and has always been enjoyed. Rosé wine originally came from Bordeaux which has been traditionally known for its superb wine making skills, and it is crisp and dry.

California Central Valley

Before the 60s, wine in America was mostly red and white. It was sweet and designed for mass sale to large consumer markets. Rosé was pretty much a neglected afterthought. Bone dry wines were not popular in America in the 50s and the 60s and the largest American producers were concentrating on inexpensive blends based mostly on high-yielding varieties. Then the mega-wineries discovered Grenache. By accident, it was planted in the wrong place (the hot California Central Valley) and the skins bleached to a medium pink color. Thus was the birth of commercial 'California Rosé.'

It's pink color gave way to a new term. It could not be called white and likewise it was not truly red. This is where the term ‘blush wine’ evolved and to this day, this name is incorrectly associated with Rosé wine. California wineries began producing something they called White Zinfandel. Although it became an enormously popular drink for a few years, it did much to damage the reputation of true Rosés in the minds of America's wine drinkers. White Zin's, as they're called, are very sweet, in comparison to traditional Rosés and are much less versatile.

These early 'Rosé' wines were single dimensional and much too sweet. In spite of that, they were a huge success in America. Americans like sweet. Look at soda, candy, our version of donuts, cupcakes and pastry. The more tooth-achingly sweet anything is, the better Americans seem to like it. Winemakers, needing to make a profit to stay in business, fed the market they were given. That is, until until trendy Americans discovered dry table wines. Suddenly, the interest shifted to wines with classy French names and mass marketed sweet wines declined in esteem, if not in popularity. As with any fad in America, where consumers suddenly become overnight connoisseurs, if you were drinking White Zin and Grenache and you weren't drinking a wine whose name you could barely pronounce, you were no longer considered hip. In those days there were no serious Rosé wines in the American market. True connoisseurs knew about the classic Rosés of Tavel and Lirac, but these wines were rarely found in your local liquor store.

Today, American wine consumers seem to be rediscovering the charm of old world styled Rosés and domestic winemakers are putting their own spin on them. Rosé wines are the fastest growing segment of the American wine market and with good reason. California, Oregon and Washington State are producing some incredible Rosés. While some consumers still like their Grenache and Zin, as palates and wine-drinkers become more mature and educated, the American market is starting to catch up with Europe in its appreciation of this delicate wine. A real Rosé is a dry, crisp, refreshing mouthful of flavor that has a hint of fruitiness. It is a sophisticated and elegant drink that is great at wine pairings and most dinners. Often referred to as a summer wine, the best of these are available from the USA, Italy, Australia, Canada, Spain, France and Portugal.

The Grapes

Made in almost every wine region globally, Rosé wines are produced from a wide variety of grapes, from Mourvedre, Syrah and Grenache, to more unusual grape varieties like Brachetto. Several appellations are noted for their superb rosé wines, including France's Provence and Spain's Navarra regions, where it accounts for more than half of the wines produced. Other places associated with rosé production are Tavel and the Loire Valley. California, Oregon and Washington State are now starting to make their mark, producing some of the best the market has ever seen.

Rosé wines, as noted, are typically dry. They should be served chilled and are a refreshing summer beverage. All grape juice is white, no matter what color grapes are used. Winemakers make red wines by leaving the grape skins in with the juice to absorb coloring from them. In the case of Rosé wines, the winemaker allows the skins to soak with the juice only long enough for the wine to take on a pinkish tint; then, the skins are removed and the result is a rosé wine.  In the past, it was fairly common to make Rosé wines by simply taking a white wine and adding a bit of red wine to it. Some winemakers thought this could produce interesting wines that possessed some of the hearty character of a red wine while retaining the crispness of many whites. This practice has fallen out of vogue, even in Champagne where it was once quite respected.

Skin contact

Red-skinned grapes are crushed to what is called must, and the skins are allowed to remain in contact with the juice for a short period, typically two or three days. The grapes are then pressed, and the skins are discarded rather than left in contact throughout fermentation (as with red wine making). The skins contain much of the strongly flavored tannin and other compounds, which leaves the taste more similar to a white wine. The longer that the skins are left in contact with the juice, the more intense the color of the final wine.

Saignée

Rosé wine can be produced as a by-product of red wine fermentation using a technique known as Saignée, or bleeding the vats. When a winemaker desires to impart more tannin and color to a red wine, some of the pink juice from the must can be removed at an early stage. The red wine remaining in the vats is intensified as a result of the bleeding, because the volume of juice in the must is reduced, and the must involved in the maceration is concentrated. The pink juice that is removed can be fermented separately to produce Rosé.

Types

Bordeaux

Historically Rosé was quite a delicate, dry wine. In fact the original Claret was a pale ('clairet') wine from Bordeaux that would probably now be described as a Rosé. After the Second World War, there was a fashion for medium-sweet rosés for mass-market consumption, the classic examples being Mateus Rosé and the American "blush" wines of the 1970's that we mentioned above. The pendulum now seems to be swinging back towards a drier, 'bigger' style. These wines are made from Rhone grapes like Syrah, Grenache and Carignan in hotter regions such as Provence, the Languedoc and Australia. In France, Rosé has now exceeded white wines in sales. In the United States, a record 2005 California crop resulted in an increased production and proliferation of varietals used for Rosés, as winemakers chose to make Rosé rather than leave their reds unsold.

Pairing a Rosé

Rosé wines offer interesting opportunities in matching with food because they offer an incredible versatility. They shine in cases where a white wine is not enough and a red wine is simply too much. In addition, thanks to the low content in tannins combined with their appreciable crispness, they can be served to the same temperatures as white wines. It is often said Rosé has the same aromas of red with the advantage of being served as would a white white wine, therefore they are characterized by excellently agreeable and pleasing aromas. The versatility of Rosé wine in the matching with food is wide and they are a perfect foil to appetizers, pasta, rice, fish, meat, as well as cheese.

One of the main characteristics of Rosé is their freshness in aromas, usually the same which are typically found in young red wines, however, just like any other type of wine, before proceeding with matching, it is best to know the specific characteristics of every wine. Compared to white wines, rosés are usually less acid and have a higher roundness, factors which also depend on the technique used in their production. When compared to red wines, they have a lesser structure and a lower astringency. In general terms, Rosé wines do not have a high alcohol by volume percentage, a factor that, of course, also depends on the specific conditions of the wine and its balance. Thanks to the smoothness of Rosé, it is great with pasta, fish, in particular fish soups, and roasted fish that is richly seasoned and spiced. Rosé is also suited for mushrooms and soft cheeses.

Rosé can even stand up to some meats, particularly white meats such as chicken or pork. In summer, I find them great as an aperitif, though you may want to let them warm a bit above the temperature that you would serve a chardonnay. This slight elevation in temperature brings out the delicate sweetness of the wine all the more. Rose's are even good with cold cuts, whether lean or fatty, as well as with preparations based on vegetables.

My Selection:

Rosa Regale from Banfi

 

GRAPE VARIETIES
Brachetto 100%.

PRODUCTION TECHNIQUE
Cold red-grapes skin contact for 4 to 5 days allows the wine to develop its characteristic color, aroma and complexity. The wine is then filtered and stored at 0°C. Re-fermentation follows in stainless steel tanks in the Strevi cellars, where this special wine achieves its final sweetness and sparkling character.

DESCRIPTION
COLOR: light ruby red. Lively pink mousse with a persistent perlage.
BOUQUET: intense, aromatic, varietal with hints of Bulgarian rose.
TASTE: soft and elegant with berry flavors and a touch of almond and nutmeg.

WINEMAKER’S NOTES
A soft red sparkling wine, made from Brachetto. This extremely aromatic, complex and historical grape variety grows only in the area of Acqui Terme, in Southern Piedmont.The cold maceration of the grapes, followed by a soft pressing, allows the extraction of the typical intense aromas from the skins and gives to the wine its characteristic light ruby red color. Very pleasant and extremely elegant.

FOOD PAIRINGS
This wine matches perfectly with fresh strawberries, fruit cakes, fruit salads, pastries and chocolates. An ideal aperitif as well.

Rosé is a great summer wine, cool, refreshing and delicious, But don't take my word for it. Do a tasting, find the one you like and add it to your cellar or cooler. You'll be glad you did.

Bon Appetit,

Lou

Image sources:  FreeDigitalPhotos.net   cltampa.com   www.rosaregale.com  www.myrecipes.com

The At Home Cook Series, Installment #12: Interpreting Savory & Baking Recipes

Recipes. Does this word excite you, making your taste buds salivate with anticipation at the promise of a delectable feast created from a list of fresh, quality ingredients? Or does it terrify you? Do you have trouble interpreting complicated recipes? If the former, you are probably one of the few who does not view tackling a new or difficult recipe as a daunting task. It also means you need to look at the fact of why the word recipe excites you. I'm in this category and it may simply mean I need to get out more and taken a second look at my social life. There are the latter however, who would like to take on more challenging recipes but sometimes get overwhelmed, especially if they require the use of more advanced techniques. They stick to easier recipes and miss out on enjoying some great dishes or favorites at home, sure that those more difficult methods and techniques will end in disaster. If this sometimes describes you, know two things; A. You are not alone and B. Practice makes perfect and you can learn.

In The At Home Cook Series, we have covered all the steps necessary to get you ready to tackle a complex recipe:

• Mise en Place, a French phrase that literally means "putting in place" referring to 'set up' in commercial kitchens. It refers to organizing and arranging the ingredients...
• Knife Skills This seems to be the most intimidating and sometimes, can be the most overlooked aspect facing a good at home chef. Proper knives and proper instruction is safer and the more you practice and get familiar with your knives, the safer you'll be...
• Searing and Sauteing In this installment, we move to the stove to learn the the skills for great pan cooking on the stove-top, learning how to perfectly caramelize and get that great restaurant crust at home...
• Mother Sauces For the aspiring saucier, this installment brings us the basics and how to make a roux, and covers what is a requirement for any culinary student attending culinary school. create your own delicious and healthy sauces for your family at home... 
• Grilling Perfect Steaks takes us through proper techniques for this summer's grill-master, with tips and tricks to make that perfect steak every time...
• Umami What some call the Fifth Flavor, Umami rich foods are very satisfying and can actually be a healthier way to cook as well. They tend to make salt taste saltier, which means we can lower the amount of sodium in a dish when using Umami rich ingredients.... 
• Soups and Stocks Ever wonder what was it that made mom's or grandma's soup so good, all the time? The secret was in the stock...
• Menu Planning With a little help with proper menu planning, cooking for your family, a special holiday meal, or even a dinner party of eight, will be a much more pleasurable experience...
• Dry Aged vs. Wet Aged Steaks What are the differences between dry aged and wet aged? Why has dry aged beef earned the title of the ultimate in tenderness and flavor...
• How To Properly Season Your Food One of the most important yet overlooked skills the at home chef needs to master is seasoning!
• Braising If you follow these easy steps to success, you are bound to create a very flavorful and palate appealing masterpiece!

How can you insure a successful outcome of a special meal your family and friends will all enjoy, instead of a trash can filled with wasted ingredients and an unexpected dinner out on the town? Only learning the proper techniques and the methods to gain them, can you truly guarantee success. In this next of my series, it's time to put all that we learned to the test by tackling a complex recipe. To that end, I'm going to give you some pointers on how to more successfully navigate and decipher a recipe.

Step one is to gather your "mise en place." This should include your tools (i.e. measuring spoons, pans, etc.) as well as your ingredients and perhaps, most importantly, your understanding of the steps required in order to complete the recipe. By making "mise en place"step one for every recipe you may choose to tackle, you will answer and overcome most of your recipe difficulties before you begin.

Start one recipe at a time and find the terms and Items you need to make that particular dish. What is your best partner in this investigative endeavor? Well, you could go out and invest in a kitchen companion book, probably a worthwhile investment for you serious cooks. For you once a month warriors or novice cooks, Twitter and the myriad of food sites out there, like this one, give great recipes and techniques to help with honing your culinary skills. Sites like mine usually have articles or video links to the more clinical sites that cater to the more advanced chef. Sites like these often define unfamiliar terms and offer you solutions for equipment you may not have, while also offering tools like converters, which allow you to convert measurements from, or to, metric.

Now, that we have our mise en place in place, how closely do we need to follow the recipe? This is an issue that can be argued from both sides. With savory recipes, the interchange and exchange of ingredients is much more forgiving than it is with baking. I have always stated that I view most recipes as a guide more than a stamped in stone method, especially for the more adventurous chef. With savory recipes, proteins can often be substituted for one another, within reason of course. For instance, you wouldn't replace talapia with lamb, but you could introduce a skinless chicken breast and still achieve the same basic dish and flavor profile. Not so with baking.

When it comes to baking, it is of paramount importance to follow the recipe to the letter. I recently attended a demo done by renown pastry chef Johnny Iuzzini. He explained why his book Dessert Fourplay has its recipes in grams, rather than ounces, tablespoons or say, a cup. His reasoning was spot on. He stated, "With measurements, I can ask all of you to produce a cup of flour. If 5 of us did this, I would bet that each of us would actually come up with a different amount. Grams allows you to make the recipe come out exactly as intended, whether the first time making it, or the 100th." Now most of us are not going to produce a 100th version of a recipe, especially a dessert, unless we are a professional chef working in a commercial kitchen. But baking is as much a science, as a creative endeavor. You have ingredients that must work in concert with each other, in order to have a desired end result. For instance; any recipe where you forget the required leavening: baking powder or soda, yeast, eggs will not turn out. With other cooking, you often have a bit of wiggle room for errors or missteps and some amazing dishes have been created by someone inadvertently messing up on a recipe.

Do keep in mind that when this happens, it is usually pure luck. If you stray too far from the original recipe, when baking, your end result may be an inedible mess. Does this mean you can never delete a single ingredient? Not at all! If you dislike onions, or can't eat nuts, it is perfectly okay to omit or replace them, as they are optional items that won't effect the integrity of the recipe or method. Optional items are often listed as just that, "optional." But for the intermediate chef, it is not always clear which ingredients would cause a disastrous result if they are excluded, so delete or substitute with caution.

Finally don't be afraid to seek out advice and pointers from seasoned cooks and chefs. Most people are very flattered when people seek out their advice, ask for a cooking tips or even a recipe. I have found some of the best food I have ever eaten has been in the homes of family and friends. Granted, with the advantage of moving in the circles of many very talented culinarians who cook professionally, I am fortunate to know many phenomenal cooks who consider cooking a great meal merely an enjoyable hobby.

So, is it worth the aggravation and challenge of tackling an unfamiliar recipe? I say yes! You can produce a great meal in the comfort of your own home, please friends and family with a special treat, all at a fraction of what it costs to eat out. Now I'm not saying don't eat out, you all know I love to go out and dine. But, I also love to cook gourmet meals at home as well. It can be great fun to get the whole family involved and teach your children some valuable skills, along with the importance of following directions. In many cultures, eating good food is a ritual and a way of passing down the family traditions and flavors of your heritage. So dust off those cookbooks and jump in to your own culinary adventure.

Bon Appetite,

Lou
Image Sources: www.FreeDigitalPhotos.net