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Thursday, May 03, 2012

The At Home Cook Series, Installment #7: Soups, Stocks and Family Traditions.

Family tradition is one of the most beautiful aspects of cooking. Sharing recipes and methods of preparation down through generations, has become one of the most creative ways for home cooks to create a niche for themselves in the kitchen. Talk to most chefs, both acclaimed and not, and they will readily admit somewhere in their r'epertoire is most likely a recipe or number of recipes, derived or adapted from childhood memory or recipes handed down through the family over the years. Some chefs have even made TV careers & businesses from these love filled, time tested recipes. My mom has an amazing array of recipes, quite a few hand written by my grandmother and they are as prized as any jewel or heirloom within the family. Especially the soups and stocks. So today I'll explore this topic in what is my seventh installment in what I call "The At Home Cook Series." In installments one through seven, we explored Mise en Place, Knife Skills, Searing and SauteingMother Sauces, Grilling Perfect Steaks and Umami, or what some refer to as 'The Fifth Flavor.' Be sure to check out the whole series for tips and techniques designed to enhance your at home cooking experience in the kitchen.

Stock
To begin, let's take the simple definition. Most soups start with some type of broth or stock which is defined as; a liquid (usually water) that is fortified with a definite flavor. Different types of stocks include, vegetable, chicken, beef, duck, fish, lobster, corn, asparagus, etc The list is endless depending on what flavor you are looking for and, of course the ingredients that you are going to use it in. The final flavor you are trying to achieve determines how you are going to treat the ingredients going in. As an example were you to be making corn stock, your flavors would take on a completely different profile if you were using raw corn vs. roasted corn. Developing a base flavor is an important part, if not the most important part, of a successful soup and that can be achieved in many ways. If the home cook wants to make a meaty and rich soup for instance, it is important to caramelize the meat and vegetables first, then deglaze the pan with a liquid (sometimes red or white wine) to remove the flavorful pieces from the bottom of the pan (called fond) and add those flavors to the soup resulting in a richness of flavor that we discussed in my last installment, Umami.

A French term called ‘Mirepoix,’ is the foundation of most soups and stocks. This is a mixture of 2 parts onion, 1 part carrot, and 1 part celery. Aromatics are flavor enhancers that are added to your stock to bloom or boost flavors. Aromatics include: peppercorns, bay leaves, juniper berries, any herbs, any onions, or garlic.


Most importantly, we need to determine what type of stock we want to create, and then decide what the future of our beautiful stock will be. After you have added all your ingredients, you are now ready to let your stock simmer. A simmer is a temperature between 190-200 degrees and different stocks have different simmering times in order to reach their fullness of flavor:

Vegetable stocks~45 minutes
Fish stocks~1 hour 30 minutes
Chicken (Poultry) stocks~2 hours
Beef stocks~6 hours ( pre-roast the bones)

Once your stock is completely simmered to it's full richness, the final step is straining your it properly. What we are looking for is a pure, smooth and beautiful liquid so at this point we need to pass it through a strainer or "cheesecloth" to remove all impurities and vegetables, or large ingredients. Your stock can now be used immediately, or can be frozen in smaller batches to be thawed and used the next time you decide to make a soup or sauce.

Soup
Soup is a food that is made by combining ingredients such as meat and vegetables in stock or hot/boiling water, until the flavor is extracted, forming a broth. Traditionally, soups are classified into two broad groups: clear soups and thick soups. The established French classifications of clear soups are bouillon and consommé. Thick soups are classified depending upon the type of thickening agent used:
purées are vegetable soups thickened with starch;
bisques are made from puréed shellfish thickened with cream;
cream soups are thickened with béchamel sauce;
veloutes are thickened with eggs, butter and cream.

Other ingredients commonly used to thicken soups and broths include rice, flour, and grains and beans. The word soup originates from "sop," a dish originally consisting of a soup or thick stew which was soaked up with pieces of bread. The modern meaning of sop has been limited to just the bread intended to be dipped.

Cooking with the seasons can be a lot of fun, s when thinking soups and stocks, consider ingredients available at that time of year and enjoy gathering ingredients that are at their peek of freshness. Autumn is by far my favorite season for soups and I enjoy making heartier soups. Below is a simple recipe for butternut squash soup. It should only take approximately 35 minutes to prepare and the flavors are wonderful!

Butternut Squash Soup
Ingredients
1 butternut squash, peeled
1 onion, chopped
2 tsp nutmeg
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 cups chicken stock
Salt and pepper (to taste)

Method
Cut squash into 1-inch chunks. In a large pot melt butter. Add onion and cook until translucent, about 8 minutes. Add squash and stock. Bring to a simmer and cook until squash is tender. Remove squash chunks with slotted spoon and place in a blender and puree. You may have to add a bit of the cooking liquid to achieve the desired consistency. Return blended squash to the pot. Stir and season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper.

To Plate
Garnishes for the soup may vary, you can make a cinnamon flavored crème fraiche, pumpkin croutons, or just garnish with chopped chives.

Try your hand at your family's traditional soups or get creative with ingredients and start your own traditions. Remember practice makes perfect. Either way, it's a great way to warm the stomachs and the hearts of your family and friends. Enjoy!

As always, Bon Appetit!

Lou

Sunday, April 29, 2012

Tequila ~ Key Lime Tarts with Tequila Caviar

Tequila~Key Lime Tarts with Tequila Caviar
This recipe is for the more advanced chef and combines two of my favorite things; Tequila as an ingredient and a bit of  Molecular Gastronomy as a method that you can do at home. You can simply make the Tarts and leave it at that, but for you more adventurous chefs, I've included the recipe for the Tequila Caviar as well. Good Luck!

Ingredients
Graham Crust
1 lb. graham cracker crumbs
8 oz sugar
4 oz pastry flour
8 oz melted butter
Sugar dough
2 lb butter
12 oz sugar
1/4 oz salt
9 oz eggs
3 lb pastry flour

Method
Graham crust: Mix well and set aside.
Sugar dough: Mix the butter, sugar and salt at low speed, add eggs, flour and mix just until evenly blended. Chill for a few hours before using.

Filling
Ingredients
14 oz sweetened condensed milk
3 egg yolks
3 oz key lime juice
1 oz tequila
Mix well and refrigerate

To Assemble
First, decide if you are going to use a sugar dough base or a graham base. If you choose sugar dough you will need to roll out the dough after it has chilled and form it in to your tart pan or pie pan. If you opt for graham, form the graham into the mold by simply pressing it in. Both shells need to be par baked for 12-15 minutes. While the tarts are baking prepare the filling. Fill the molds with key lime filling and bake for about 15 minutes or until filling is set. Let cool and remove from pan. Decorate and serve.

For you adventurous chefs, here is how to make the Tequila Caviar.

Tequila Caviar

Ingredients
3 oz simple syrup
3 oz key lime juice
3 oz tequila
.8% agar agar
.2 % locust bean gum
Frozen vegetable oil


Method
One day prior to assembly put oil in the freezer. The day you are making the caviar, remove the oil from freezer 1 hour before using. Allow the oil to defrost, but keep it cold. Mix juice, tequila, agar agar and locust bean gum using a hand held mixer for about 1 minute. Let mix sit for a few hours to allow some of the bubbles to disappear. Bring caviar mix to a boil and strain.

When the caviar mix is ready, it needs to be warm and the oil needs to be cold. Pour the hot mix into a piping bag. Cut a very tiny hole in the bag, so small that you have to squeeze a bit to get the drips out. Above the oil, start squeezing out the mix in small drops using a circular motion. You can adjust the size of the caviar by adjusting your height above the oil. Further away makes smaller balls, closer makes larger balls. The caviar will sink to the bottom of the bowl as the mix gets warmer. Once the mix is done,  strain the oil and the caviar will remain in the sieve. Delicately rinse the caviar in cold water and use as decoration.

I hope you try the recipe for the Caviar for yourselves and don't worry if your first attempt doesn't come out quite right. It took me three tries to get the Caviar method down, so don't be discouraged. As with everything, practice make perfect and remember; the plating here was done specifically for presentation and publishing purposes. Just get creative with your plating and enjoy the wonderful flavors that will wow your friends and family.

Bon Appetit

Lou