The At Home Cook SeriesInstallment #13: The Language Of The Kitchen...

To some, the mere phraseology, lexicon and linguistic abnormalities that sometimes ascribe themselves to the professional, and/or commercial kitchens can and has been the sole reason some would be cooks needed to keep them from embracing the frontier of cooking. It is for those this next installment in the series comes. We'll explore and explain the phrases, definitions and concepts in relation to cheffing and the kitchen so the next time you receive a Tourchon, you'll know what your getting! Following is a list of words. First, because everybody loves a good list. Second, because in order to be a complete chef in your own kitchen, cooking, interpreting recipes and mastering the techniques, you need to be able to understand what's being asked of you by a particular cookbook's or chef's recipe. Some words you need to know. Some you probably should know. Then there's the ones you want to know, in order to show off..

Culinary Words Index

Amuse-Bouche ~  also known as amuse-gueule, amusee, petite amuse and lagniappe. A French term that literally means 'mouth amusement.' These are tiny bites of food served before a meal to whet the palate and invigorate the appetite. They're more whimsical than hors d'oeuvres, and smaller than appetizers.
Aperitif ~ French term for an alcoholic beverage served before a meal as an appetizer to stimulate the appetite. It can be a punch made to complement the meal, but it is usually a white wine, sherry, champagne, or a sparkling wine.
Assiette ~ French for "assortment," as in cheeses.
Bain-Marie ~ A  hot water bath that is used to keep food warm on the top of a stove. It is also to cook custards and baked eggs in the oven without curdling or cracking and also used to hold sauces and to clarify butter.
Béarnaise ~A classic reduction of wine, vinegar, tarragon and shallots, finished with egg yolks and butter.
Béchamel ~A basic white sauce of milk, butter and flour.
Beurre blanc ~A thick sauce of butter, white wine and vinegar.
Beurre noisette ~Butter cooked to a hazelnut (noisette) color.
Beurre rouge ~ Beurre blanc, but with red wine instead of white.
Blanch, blanching ~ To briefly plunge food into boiling water and then into cold water to stop cooking.
Bonne femme - A French phrase indicating that a dish has been cooked simply (with vegetables and stock).
Bouquet garni ~ It is a small bunch of herbs, which traditionally consist of a bay leaf, sprig of thyme, and a sprig of parsley, tied together with kitchen twine and tossed into the sauce as is.
Braise ~ a slow-cooking method for tough cuts of meat or poultry and even stringy vegetables.
Brine ~ A mixture of salt water, sometimes herbs and spices designed to increase the moisture holding capacity of meat. by having the meat soak in it for from three hours up to three days, resulting in a moister product when cooked. 
Brunoise ~ It is a French word used to describe a mixture of vegetables, usually onion, celery, and carrot, which has been very finely diced, then cooked slowly in butter.
Butterfly ~ To split food (usually meat, fish, or poultry) down the center, cutting almost, but not completely through. The two halves are then opened flat to resemble a butterfly. Often this is the first step when preparing a roast that is to be stuffed and rolled.
Caramelize ~ (1) To heat sugar until it liquefies and becomes a clear caramel syrup ranging in color from golden to dark brown. (2) Heating of meats or vegetables until the natural sugars in them break down and turn light brown. Sugar will begin to caramelize at 320 degrees F.
Carry-over cooking ~ heat transferring from the hotter exterior of the meat to the cooler center. As a general rule, the larger and thicker the cut of meat and the higher the cooking temperature, the more residual heat will be in the meat, and the more the internal temperature will rise during resting, due to carry-over cooking. This means the meat must be removed from the heat at an internal temperature lower than your desired final internal temperature, allowing the residual heat to finish the cooking.
Cassoulet ~ A slow-cooked marriage of white beans and assorted meats such as pork, duck or goose.
Celeriac ~ More commonly known here as celery root.
Charcuterie ~ The French term for delicatessen-style items.
Chasseur Sauce ~ Chasseur is French for hunter. It is a hunter-style brown sauce consisting of mushrooms, shallots, and white wine (sometimes tomatoes and parsley). It is most often served with game and other meats.
Chef de Partie ~ Also known as a "station chef" or "line cook", is in charge of a particular area of production.
Chiffonade ~In culinary terms, a chiffonade describes a way of cutting herbs and lettuces into thin strips or shreds, which look a bit like rags.
Coddle ~ To cook food slowly in water just below the boiling point.
Cold-smoking ~ Curing meat (hams, sausages, bacon, fish) in the smoke of smoldering wood or corncobs at temperatures from 60 to 100 degrees F.
Compote ~ refers to a chilled dish of fresh or dried fruit that has been slowly cooked in sugar syrup, which may also contain alcohol or liqueur and sometimes spices.
Compound butter ~ Also known as finishing butter, flavoring butter, or beurre composé in French, A compound butter is butter that has been flavored by blending softened butter together with various ingredients.
Confiseur ~ The candy cook.
Confit ~ Meat (usually goose, duck or pork) that is slowly cooked in its own fat and preserved with the fat packed around it as a seal.
Consommé ~ Meat or fish stock that has been clarified.
Coquilles St. Jacques ~ Scallops cooked in white wine with a little salt, peppercorn, parsley, bay leaf, chopped shallots, and water. A sauce of fish stock, butter, flour, milk, egg yolks, and cream accompanies them.
Coulis ~ A type of a sauce which derives its body (either entirely or in part), from pureed fruits or vegetables.
Court bouillon ~ It is a French term that means, "short broth." It is used in place of water when boiling various types of food (mostly used for poaching fish or as a base for fish soups). The broth is made of wine, water, herbs, and spices. It usually is also flavored with onions, celery, carrots and cloves.
Crème anglaise ~Rich custard sauce, often used as a topping or plating accompaniment to fruits and pastries.
Crème fraîche ~ Cream that is allowed to set and thicken to a velvety rich texture.
Dauphine ~ Croquettes made by combining potato puree with pastry dough, forming the mixture into balls and then rolling them in bread crumbs and deep-fried.
Deglaze ~ To dissolve the remaining bits of sautéed or roasted food in (a pan or pot) by adding a liquid and heating. The resultant mixture often becomes a base for a sauce to accompany the food cooked in the pan.
Demi-glace ~ A rich brown reduction of meat stock, Madeira or sherry, and other ingredients. Used as a base for many other sauces.
Duxelles ~ Often used as a garnish or to flavor sauces and soups, duxelles is a mixture of finely chopped mushrooms, shallots and herbs cooked in butter until it forms a thick paste.
Emulsion ~ The mixture of two liquids that cannot normally combine smoothly (e.g., oil and water). Mayonnaise and hollandaise are two familiar emulsions.
En croute ~ A food that is wrapped in pastry and baked.
Enophile ~ A person who is knowledgeable about and enjoys wine.
Epicure ~ A person of refined taste who cultivates the knowledge and appreciation of fine food and wine.
Fumet ~ An intense stock made most often from fish or mushrooms, used to add flavor or body to another stock or sauce.
Galette ~ A round, flat cake or tart.
Hollandaise ~ An emulsion of egg yolks, lemon juice and hot melted butter, the smooth, rich sauce is often an accompaniment to vegetable, fish and egg dishes.
Meunière ~ Literally "miller's wife" in French, this cooking technique (used primarily for fish) involves a light coating of flour before sauteing in butter or oil.
Mirepoix ~ A combination of diced carrots, onions, celery and herbs cooked in butter; used to flavor a wide range of dishes.
Mousseline ~ A sauce made airy with the addition of whipped cream or beaten egg whites.
Niçoise ~ Dishes typical of cuisine from the Nice, France, region, where garlic, black olives, anchovies and tomatoes are nearly always part of the mix.
Noisette ~ a) French for hazelnut; b) small, very tender round steak, usually of lamb beef or veal, cut from the rib or loin; c) as in beurre noisette: butter heated until it turns nut brown; used as a finishing touch for many dishes, especially fish.
Paillard ~ A thin slice of meat, grilled or sautéed.
Papillote ~ The term "en papilotte" is used to describe a dish that is cooked (and usually served) in a parcel of greased parchment paper that protects it from the high heat of the oven and retains aroma and flavor.
Pâté ~ Ground meat, fish or vegetables blended with fat and seasonings; can be smooth or chunky, served cold or hot.
Pâte ~ French for dough, paste or batter.
Pot-au-feu ~ Meat and vegetables simmered in water.
Poussin ~ A small, young chicken.
Prix fixe ~ French for fixed price, a complete meal that features a limited number of selections at a preset price.
Quenelle ~ A small, delicate, poached dumpling of meat, fish or vegetables.
Rillettes ~ Meat, usually pork, slowly cooked in seasoned fat and made into a smooth paste, then packed and sealed with a thin layer of fat. Served cold.
Roulade ~ A French term for a thin roll of meat or cake around savory or sweet fillings.
Roux ~ A slow-cooked mix of flour and fat, used to thicken soups and sauces.
Terrine ~ a) kind of pâté made of pieces of meat in a deep dish with straight side; b) an earthenware container, or the dish cooked therein.
Torchon ~ Method of cooking foie gras by which it is placed in a towel (torchon in French) and poached.
Velouté ~ A creamy white, stock-based sauce.
Verjus ~ Sour liquid made from unripe fruit; used to flavor sauces and condiments.

Artisanal Cheese-Making In The U.S.: From The Bayou To The Big City...

To date in this U.S. series, we've explored the three main cheese producing states here in America; California, Vermont & Wisconsin. In this last of the series, I scoured the rest of country in search of some artisanal cheese-makers that are wowing cheese lovers in their specific geographic neck of the woods. If  you have followed along, the series has been a great window into some of the really great things happening with cheese here in the US. Many of the cheeses here are available direct from the cheese makers or dairies themselves, or you can check out artisanal cheeses online, shipped right to your door from places like Artisanal Cheese in New York City.

For true cheese lovers, the discovery of little out of the way farms that produce quality local cheese is a fun way to fill up a weekend this summer. Many of the top producing cheese states have cheese trails, much the same way that they do in Europe. You all know yourselves and I'm pretty confident in my assessment that if you are here reading this, you would likely take a cheese trail trip. Come on, admit it. It's okay. Well, here's two for you to check out; Vermont and Wisconsin. If you are really serious about finding great artisinal cheese-makers in the United States, check out this guide by Clark Wolf.

Many of you, are active, always out and about on the weekends. If you are not, you should be. When you're done perusing the cheeses here, shut down the computer, pick up some fresh bread, your favorite beverage, try some new cheeses. Then ring up some friends. Pour, eat, enjoy. After all, that is the point of all this; 'education leads to interaction.' It's only in the doing, whether cooking, eating, or just spending time with friends, that the true human spirit is sated....

Mmmm.....'the power of cheese'........

The Cheeses

Maytag Dairy, Maytag Blue, Iowa
Nestled in among the rolling hills of central Iowa is Maytag Dairy, which produces Maytag Blue cheese. Shortly before World War II, F.L. Maytag II began working with scientists at Iowa State University to begin making a great American blue cheese, modeled after those of Europe. The result was one of the first American farmstead cheeses of superior quality. Maytag cheese makers, however, are still hand making the same cheese that they created in the 1930's. Maytag Blue's popularity has taken off with the growing interest in American farmstead cheeses, and this wonderful, tangy blue cheese is now featured on menus across the country. Its wonderful flavor, moist yet crumbly texture, and lemony finish make Maytag one of the world's great blue cheeses.

Barely Buzzed, Beehive Dairy, Utah
Barely Buzzed is produced by Tim Welsh and Pat Ford at the Beehive Dairy in Utah, one of the few dairy farms in that state. This rind of this cheese is rubbed with a blend of espresso and lavender, and the flavors permeate gracefully to the core of the cheese as it ages. The Barely Buzzed won a Blue Ribbon at the American Cheese Society in 2008 and again in 2009.

Belford, James Ranch, Colorado

Belford is the signature cheese of the Becca and Dan James of the James Ranch. Sold as both a young and mature form, it is similar to an aged gouda but has some cheddar ? like qualities. It is very creamy and has a lovely tang. Belford is a delicious table cheese and goes especially well with apples and pears. Belford (particularly the younger) melts well and is delicious in recipes.

Catskill, Stissing Mountain, New York
A beautiful goat cake from Stissing Mountain in Upstate New York. Refreshing and mild, it will please young children's palates as well as everyone in the family. Under its bloomy rind it will age well for several weeks. In the process it will develop a more mushroomy aroma and will become a little more goat. The goats begin to kid in the Spring and milk for cheese-making is available late into the year.

Chocolate Capri, Westfield Farm, Massachusetts
Westfield Farm has been handcrafting award-winning farmstead cheeses in Hubbardston, Massachusetts since 1971. Located on 20 acres in the central part of the state, the farm turns out a little over 900 pounds of cheese per week. Cheese-maker Dave Cass is very proud of Westfield's many national awards, including Best of Show at the American Cheese Society's 1996 annual convention. If the notion of a semi-sweet chocolate goat cheese appeals to you, you will positively fall in love with this creation from Westfield Farm. Rich and creamy with a slightly goaty tang, be forewarned, these five ounce logs are addictive. Chocolate Capri took 1st Place at the 2003 American Cheese Society Awards in the Flavored Goat Cheese category.king farmstead gouda in the Dutch tradition is part of Frisian Farms? heritage and commitment to its Dutch ancestry. Frisian Farms is located just outside Pella, Iowa, which has a national reputation as being a ?touch of Holland.? Pella is a predominantly Dutch community that has retained strong ties to its ancestry by preserving Dutch culture through its food, shops, crafts and architecture including traditional windmills and a historical village. Each year the town celebrates its Dutch heritage with a three day tulip festival that draws over 200,000 visitors who come to enjoy the tulips, food, Dutch dancing, parades and crafts.

Frisian Farmstead Mature Gouda, Iowa
A washed-rind cow's milk farmstead cheese that is nutty and sweet with a hint of fruitiness. When young, its texture is firm but creamy. As it matures, Frisian Farmstead Gouda develops mellow notes of butterscotch and honey, turns a deep amber color and becomes firm and crumbly in texture. This farmstead cheese is complex but retains a rustic essence that makes it widely appealing to both cheese novices and connoisseurs.
 
Fleur-de-Teche Fromage Triple Cream with Vegetable Ash, Bittersweet Plantation Dairy, Louisiana
According to Chetimaches Indian legend, Louisiana's Bayou Teche was formed when a snake, miles in length, battled with the tribe. The snake was killed in the battle and as its great body broadened and curved, it sunk into the damp mud of the swampland. Later, as water flowed through this channel, Bayou Teche was formed. Fleur-de-Teche, a triple cream cow's milk cheese, honors this legend. The vegetable ash "snakes" through the buttery, creamy interior of this soft rind.

Grayson by Meadow Creek, Virginia
Virginia's Feete family uses ecologically-sound farming practices in raising their dairy herd of Jersey cows: no pesticides or herbicides are used in the fields where the cows are rotationally pastured; the cows are never confined or fed silage, and are given minimal hormones and antibiotics; and the milking season ends when grass growth wanes and the cows wind down their milk production. The quality of the cheese reflects this diligence. Grayson is Meadow Creek Dairy's washed rind offering: the brownish-orange rind of the mildly pungent four-pound square envelopes a supple, semi-soft paste that tastes rich and beefy with sweet, nutty tones. 2008 American Cheese Society Winner: 1st in category.

Great Hill Blue, Great Hill Dairy, Massachusetts
Located on the shores of Buzzard's Bay, 50 miles south of Boston, Great Hill Dairy in Marion, Massachusetts has been known for its outstanding herd of Guernsey cows, as well as for its prize-winning Acacia and Orchid collections. Great Hill produces a unique tasting blue cheese in its turn-of-the-century barn. Great Hill Blue is an internally ripened variety made with raw, um-homogenized milk, resulting in a full-flavored, smooth tasting cheese. The cheese has a rather dense and yellow curd, as no bleach or food colorings are added. Its texture is crumbly and slightly drier than Roquefort or Gorgonzola.

Hooligan, Cato Corner Farms, Connecticut
An American washed-rind cheese from Colchester, Connecticut's Cato Corner Farms. With their herd of 30 grass-fed Jersey and Brown Swiss cows, Cato Corner specializes in making washed rind, raw milk cheeses. Cheesemaker Mark Gillman has worked with French and Belgian cheesemakers to develop his distinctive line of farmhouse cheeses - Hooligan, a raw cow's milk cheese aged over 60 days in an underground cave, is made from cooked curds and molded in a small basket. As the wheels age, they are washed in buttermilk, encouraging the growth of bright orange b.linens bacteria that give Hooligan its characteristic color, flavor, and aroma. Although boasting a strong aroma, Hooligan has a relatively mild washed-rind flavor and sweet finish.

Kunik, Nettle Meadow Goat Farm, New York
A unique and decadent cheese made from goat's milk and Jersey Cow's milk cream at Nettle Meadow Goat Farm in Thurman, New York. Nettle Meadow is a 50 acre, 100 goat farm in the Southern Adirondacks; its Kunik is a wheel of triple creme with a bloomy, white rind and tangy, buttery flavor.

O'Banon, Judith Schad, Capriole, Indiana
Wrapped in chestnut leaves marinated in Woodford Reserve Bourbon, it is a beautiful signature to any cheese tray. Its light, tannic and mineral flavors improve with age, and pair especially well with dry champagnes. An old cheese with a new name, it is larger and fresher than the French version, giving it a lighter, palate cleansing edge. Traditionally, the chestnut leaves used to wrap the cheese were soaked in eau de vie. They now use Woodford Reserve Bourbon. The tannins in the leaves and the bourbon combine to give this creamy, dense cheese just a nuance of a kick! At 2 months old it's better than at 2 weeks. 2001, 2004, 2007, and 2008 ACS Award Winner.

Queso Oaxaca, Paula Lambert, Texas
Paula Lambert is a renowned cheese-maker and entrepreneur. In 1982 she founded the award-winning Mozzarella Company, a small cheese factory in Dallas. Today, the company produces some of the best Hispanic-influenced cheeses this side of the border. Inspired by the fabulous cheese from the beautiful Mexican state of Oaxaca, this cheese is also the base for the classic Mexican dish Queso Fondido, a Central American twist on fondue. Sliver medal winner at the 2002 American Cheese Society Awards.

Silver Falls Creamery, Rosemary & Peppercorn with Olive Oil, Oregon
Shawn Hanowell and Hanohaven Farms located in the Willamette Valley, not far from Silver Creek Falls, Silver Falls Creamery provides the highest grade goats? milk for their award-winning artisan cheeses a result of the combination of well managed goats, a pristine environment and expert craftsmanship. For the 23rd year, the American Cheese Society has held the contest. The contest this year featured a record 941 entries ? nearly 200 more than any previous ACS competition ? from 157 producers representing 28 U.S. states and two Canadian provinces. With the award that Silver Falls Creamery earned, they are hoping to put Oregon on the map as one of the finest artisan and goat cheese producers in the nation. Another strong favorite, this cheese is perfect with steak and baked potatoes with a red wine. Try spreading it on your potato or French bread. This also goes well with lamb and wild game. American Dairy Goat Association October 2006 Cheese Competition Results Silver Falls Creamery 1st Place Fresh Unripened Goats Milk Cheese-Commercial.

Smokey Blue by Rogue Creamery, Oregon
In 2002, Ig (Ignazio "Ig" Vella, affectionately known as the Godfather of artisan cheese) hand selected Cary Bryant and David Gremmels as the new owners of what is now known as The Rogue Creamery. Of utmost importance was to carry on the tradition of hand-milled cheese. Bryant and Gremmels hit the ground running. Within a year, they were producing award-winning cheeses, "Oregon Blue" is a classic Roquefort style blue cheese that is cold smoked 16 hours with Oregon Hazelnut shells. The smoking process releases a sweet, creamy, smokey flavor that balances both the sharp blue flavor and sweet, creamy flavor of the 100% natural full cream sustainable milk from Bonanza View Dairy. Oregon's Rogue Creamery scored the coveted Best New Product in the World Award at the National Association for the Specialty Food Trade (NASFT) Food Show in New York (2005) and best product line (2006). Smokey Blue was also the winner of the of the Innovation Award - (2006 SIAL Paris, France. Made from unpasteurized cow's milk. Suitable for vegetarians.

Bon Appetit,

Lou
Sources: Rogue Creamery, Oregon Smokey Blue by Rogue Creamery, Oregon Queso Oaxaca, Paula Lambert, Texas O'Banon, Judith Schad, Capriole, Indiana Kunik, Nettle Meadow Goat Farm, New York Hooligan, Cato Corner Farms, Connecticut Great Hill Blue, Great Hill Dairy, Massachusetts Grayson by Meadow Creek, Virginia Bittersweet Plantation Dairy, Louisiana Frisian Farmstead Mature Gouda, Iowa Westfield Farm, Massachusetts James Ranch, Colorado Beehive Dairy, Utah Maytag Dairy, Iowa